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Freezer works but cooler doesn't. After manual defrost, unit runs fine 4-6wks before frost builds on evaporator coils. Evaporator fan works fine.
Ran the system with freezer back panel removed (without defrosting). Cooler side started to get colder. Unit ran continuously for over 10hrs at which point I turned unit off. Heater was never even warm. When the unit was powered after removing rear freezer panel, heard a click with lamps dimming, and several seconds later heard another click and lamps got brighter.
Defrost heater shows 20 ohms. Defrost Thermostat shows infinity resistance (no movement on multimeter) when tested cold or dipped in v.hot water.
So, as I understand, heater seems ok., but thermostat is bad. Does the clicks mean the Adaptive Timer is good? Now that I've everything taken things apart, should I, might as well replace the Adaptive timer and the heater too?
Also, I read about people programming and/or forcing Adaptive timers to go into defrost cycle. Does that mean by just replacing the Adaptive timer, the unit will not function correctly without having to tamper with it?
Thanks in advance for this, and many thanks for educating all of us.
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Here are your parts Model SearchHere is a service manual http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16010154.pdfSo, as I understand, heater seems ok., but thermostat is bad. Thermostat must be tested frozen not just cold. Hold the face on an ice cube for a couple minutes to see if it closes. Often you can see if it is blown it will be swelled up. You have immersed it in water so may want to replace it. They are not sealed all that good and often fail when water gets in them, freezes, expands and causes them to break/swell. Does the clicks mean the Adaptive Timer is good? Cannot say what your clicking was. Doubt it was a defrost because if the heater did not come on, you would not have a current draw so it should not dim the lights. The compressor and the fans should shut off when in defrost. Now that I've everything taken things apart, should I, might as well replace the Adaptive timer and the heater too? I would not do the heater as you know it is OK. I would do the timer if the thermostat checks out OK. Would also do the thermostat even if it does test OK. Also, I read about people programming and/or forcing Adaptive timers to go into defrost cycle. Does that mean by just replacing the Adaptive timer, the unit will not function correctly without having to tamper with it? Not sure what you mean. Forcing the unit into a defrost checks the heater and the thermostat. It is just a test. Note this assumes the defrost thermostat is frozen. If you force a defrost and the heater heat then you know that the heater and thermostat is OK so the likely culprit is the timer. If it does not heat then you must check the two components. Note this does not totally eliminate the timer as the cause |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Denman, thanks for the reply and manual info... When I tested the thermostat earlier, I didn't quite submerge it in hot water, just dipped the bottom half only and shows no bulge or warp. After reading your reply, I put the thermostat in freezer compartment of my little fridge and tested when it got "frosty" cold. There was a 0 (zero) ohm reading and after about a minute or so with a faint click it "opened" - and multi meter showed infinity reading. Q: If the freezer Temp. controller located by the Adaptive Timer is not functioning well, can that cause frost build up? (Keeping in mind that freezer works fine and responds to movement of the temp. control lever at least after manual defrost) NOTE: when I first manually defrosted the fridge and medled with it, before discovering the forum, I accidently broke the damper door and since then used without the damper door. But that couldn't be the primary cause as I medled with it in the first place because the fresh food section stopped cooling.  managed to fix the door.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Sounds like your adaptive defrost board is shot. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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