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hi there - thanks for any advice & assistance on figuring out my used frig - kenmore 106.57282791 9/1997. i used guide @ the-appliance-c1inic dot com/modcres.html for troubleshooting. good water pressure to valve.
resistance - ohms (measured/guide standard):: TH - cycle 94/0 or infinite, VN - valve 323/300, LM - motor 233/4400-8800, LH - heater 72/72. when plugged in LN has 121V. removed valve - both water & ice measure 330 ohms.
no water thru dispenser or to ice tray. valve hum when depressing dispenser lever, no valve hum when jumping TH for cycle (the cycle did complete) or LV for valve. upon removal of valve, internal screen on water supply side is clean. maybe 1/4-1/2 cup of water out of the 2 plastic lines when disconnected. i could blow air thru both plastic lines @ the valve, so not a blockage issue.
i can get a new valve from fleabay or amazon for ~$21. i want to be sure there isnt any wiring or other problem first, of course. can i use 120v A/C to test the valve? or is there some transformer in there changing the current? the bracket is stamped 120V 60HZ 40W PART 2182105 FSP. so it looks like i can use straight 120v. i dont really care about cold water, so if i could get one of the valves to work to supply the ice maker i would be happy.
thanks again for your attention
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Originally Posted by: gb77  hi there - thanks for any advice & assistance on figuring out my used frig - kenmore 106.57282791 9/1997. i used guide @ the-appliance-c1inic dot com/modcres.html for troubleshooting. good water pressure to valve.
resistance - ohms (measured/guide standard):: TH - cycle 94/0 or infinite, VN - valve 323/300, LM - motor 233/4400-8800, LH - heater 72/72. when plugged in LN has 121V. removed valve - both water & ice measure 330 ohms.
no water thru dispenser or to ice tray. valve hum when depressing dispenser lever, no valve hum when jumping TH for cycle (the cycle did complete) or LV for valve. upon removal of valve, internal screen on water supply side is clean. maybe 1/4-1/2 cup of water out of the 2 plastic lines when disconnected. i could blow air thru both plastic lines @ the valve, so not a blockage issue.
i can get a new valve from fleabay or amazon for ~$21. i want to be sure there isnt any wiring or other problem first, of course. can i use 120v A/C to test the valve? or is there some transformer in there changing the current? the bracket is stamped 120V 60HZ 40W PART 2182105 FSP. so it looks like i can use straight 120v. i dont really care about cold water, so if i could get one of the valves to work to supply the ice maker i would be happy.
thanks again for your attention GB, Based on your resistance readings, I'd think eveything would be fine, but your hum noise from the valve, tells me it's being activated by the dispenser, but the plunger is not lifting and allowing water to flow through, so you will need to order and install a new fill valve, Part number: AP3103466
You may want to recheck the thermostat resistance, try this, with the ice maker out and check the T to H for an open circuit temperature above 15 dgrs. Add iced water ( temp. below 14 degrees) to the mold, and recheck the resistance reading after a few minutes, the circuit should be "closed". Another check would be to take the jumper wire and jump L to V in the control head, and the fill valve should activate and fill the ice maker(once all the air is cleared)if the valve and wiring are OK. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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thanks for the reply joe. i'm not sure what you mean by with the ice maker out - remove the unit from the frig? or leave in frig & remove bin so i can access the tray? all measurements were taken with the unit at room temperature - plugged in but not on/operating. its now being used with the valve removed.
as i said above, jumping LV has no result now, and i would like to know if i can take some measurement between L/V/etc & the 4 valve connectors to confirm the wiring is ok. should resistance be 0 or something else? thanks
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Originally Posted by: gb77 thanks for the reply joe. i'm not sure what you mean by with the ice maker out - remove the unit from the frig? or leave in frig & remove bin so i can access the tray? all measurements were taken with the unit at room temperature - plugged in but not on/operating. its now being used with the valve removed.
as i said above, jumping LV has no result now, and i would like to know if i can take some measurement between L/V/etc & the 4 valve connectors to confirm the wiring is ok. should resistance be 0 or something else? thanks GB, You did the checks fine, I was under the impression you had removed the ice maker and were "bench testing" the circuits. If you install your jumper wire in the L and V openings at the control head, you should have 120 VAC across the wires on the ice maker fill valve solenoid (green solenoid). That should get you where you need to be. :) :) :)
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thanks Joe - i have 120v @ the valve solenoid connectors with LV jumped. i appreciate your help.
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Originally Posted by: gb77 thanks Joe - i have 120v @ the valve solenoid connectors with LV jumped. i appreciate your help. GB, Great job. Glad we could help you out. Order a new fill valve Part number: AP3103466
and you'll be up and running. Thanks, :D :D :D
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