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Hi Gene and thanks for the reply. After I posted i realized that my voltmeter was acting up and that

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Old 10-17-2011, 04:23 PM
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Hi Gene and thanks for the reply.

After I posted i realized that my voltmeter was acting up and that I did indeed have power to the icemaker module. So with the optics LED testing OK, but no movement when jumpering the module to cycle I felt pretty confident I had a defective module, one is on order.

Terry

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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2011, 08:24 PM
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Terry,

Did you check for 120 VAC between the "L" & "N" test points? If there is no proper voltage then the problem can be a bad in line fuse in the black ice maker wire harness wire.

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Old 10-17-2011, 09:32 PM
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Hi Again Gene

the black wire has continuity, so I think the harness is fine.

Terry
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markz404 View Post
After replacing the dual water valve, I noticed that my infered light was not working with the door closed. All troubleshooting guides told me to replace both reciever and emmiter. After replacing both boards I still have no infered beam.
KitchenAid side by side icemaker stopped working. Replaced filter, water runs thru the chilled water dispenser, but water is not going into the ice cube tray...the red LED light is blinking--have turned it off and on, but it continues to blink and no ice is produced Model is KSC525INSS01. Have tried the troubleshooting tips in the manual, but nothing seems to be working.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:47 PM
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Have you tried the troubleshooting described on the first page of this thread?

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Old 12-22-2011, 12:16 PM
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Default KSRP25FNSS00 Ice Maker Not Working

I have a KitchenAid side by side fridge (KSRP25FNSS00) with an inoperative ice make and was hoping to get some help (unit is a little over 4 years old). The LED on ice maker control (where the on/off switch is located) was initially "blinking" twice followed by a pause after the emitter door was manually held closed (kept my hand out of the way to not block the beam pathway). Since it has been awhile since changing the water filter, I changed it last night to no avail (still inop). Cycled the on/off swith many times and even unplugged the fridge for a while to reset everything; still not working. Now the LED light doesn't come on at all. Also, I tried to add water to the ice maker tray to see if it would empty into the door container but no movement at all from the ice maker (it's very hard to see where the ice tray actually is when attempting to pour water in). Any help is appreciated.
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Old 12-22-2011, 12:44 PM
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Sounds like the problem is a bad optic boards (#26 & #38 on the diagram).

- The optic board kit Part number: AP3137510

Part number: AP3137510



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRP25FNSS00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

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Old 01-09-2012, 09:43 AM
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Default Ice Maker Not Working

Hello,
I'm the guy that posted about the inoperative icemaker on KitchenAid Model # KSRP25FNSS00 above. I changed the optics kit per Gene's suggestion but the unit still does not produce ice.

I troubleshot using the Job Aid for the In-Door Ice System and the optics test was good, jumpered the motor and that checked good, inspected fill tube for ice (used a hairdryer and even inserted a looped piece of wire and found no obstruction).

It appears as if the problem is there is no water fill into the ice maker so I'm thinking it may be a defective water valve, but wanted to first check with you before I order another part on a hunch (the water dispenser in the door works fine but the ice maker gets no water -- what are your thoughts)?

To further troubleshoot the water valve, can I simply "swap" the electrical connectors (after unplugging), then re-power up and depress the door water dispenser to see if the ice tray fills? I'm thinking this should enable me to see if the valve that send water to the ice maker is in-fact stuck closed or if it works I would think it's another electrical part (not sure where to go if it still doesn't work)? Any suggestions as well as the training guide (pdf manual) to troubleshoot and replace the water valve is appreciated.

One final question: I inspected the water valve to make sure the electrical connectors were proroperly installed and both were good. However, I was looking at how to disconnect the water lines and couldn't figure it out. My valve is blue plastic and has a black collar on each line. Am I to depress these black collars to disengage the lines? Again, any assistance you can provide is much appreciated.

Last edited by Eds 3rd : 01-09-2012 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eds 3rd View Post
...jumpered the motor and that checked good...


...To further troubleshoot the water valve, can I simply "swap" the electrical connectors (after unplugging), then re-power up and depress the door water dispenser to see if the ice tray fills?...
Did the ice maker fill with water when you bypassed "T" & "H" test points?


Yes, this test will show you if the water valve is bad. Post the results.


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Old 01-10-2012, 05:54 AM
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Gene,
The water tray DID NOT fill when I jumpered the "T" and "H" Test Points.

MORE INFORMATION SINCE I LAST POSTED: After work yesterday, I decided to proceed with additional troubleshooting of the water valve. To double check there was no ice in the fill line, I disconnected the ice maker water line from the water valve and used my air compressor to blow through the line (with assistance from spouse) and checked for air flow at the fill tube inside the freezer (no clogging at all). Since I was confident that wasn't the problem, I reconnected the water line and removed both electrical connectors to the water valve. I then attempted to connect the purple connector for the in-door water dispenser to the water valve for the ice maker but quickly determined that it would not connect (different size connectors). To get around this I decided to install two jumper wires from the purple (in-door water) connector to the valve for the ice maker. I taped the emitter door closed to ensure the light beam was not blocked, taped down the freezer door button to simulate the door being closed, taped the ice maker door in the open position to see the water fill tube, reconnected power and when I depressed the in-door water dispenser lever, "presto" -- water began filling the ice maker. Correct me if I'm wrong, but doing this verified that the water valve is GOOD and that my problem now is related to some other part not sending 120 VAC to the ice maker valve (result = no water due to the valve remaining in the closed position)?

I must admit that I was hoping water would NOT dispense when the in-door water lever was depressed during the "jumpered" test which would in-turn indicate a defective water valve (much cheaper to replace than the cost of an entire ice maker)?

Oh well, I'm hoping AppliancePartsPros will take back the kit for the emitter/transmitter if I have to purchase a IM.

Before I order anything else, I would greatly appreciate your opinion on what part needs to be replaced to fix my problem. Do I have to purchase an entire IM or can I simply replace another (less expensive) component (i.e., thermostat)?

Last edited by Eds 3rd : 01-10-2012 at 05:57 AM.
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