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Joined: 8/2/2011(UTC) Posts: 3
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Hoping the Pros can help me out.
I have a 25 cubic foot Whirlpool, side-by-side Fridge/Freezer… 2255955REL is the info on the Service and Wiring sheet, if I have my numbers right.
3 weeks ago, the fridge was warm, the freezer was barely below 32F… so I cleaned the condenser coils (vacuum then yard blower!) and also noticed that the evaporator core was “frozen solid”. The evaporator blower fan was working – just not able to pull air through the plugged evaporator core. So I unplugged the fridge, thawed the evaporator core, checked the defrost heater resistance (in spec) – checked the defroster bi-metal (closed when moved to our other freezer, open when at room temp) and reassembled everything.
So I plugged it back into the wall as I hadn't exactly found a smoking gun… and put it back into service. It seemed to work fine. The next Sunday morning, it was quiet in the kitchen and I could hear water dripping into the evaporator drain pan under the fridge. I figured “all must be well”.
But last night, after 3 weeks of what I considered “normal” operation, it froze up the evaporator again. Evap fan blowing… check. I rechecked the defroster coil resistance and the bi-metal – both checked out. What should I do next, I see no smoking gun!!
This next thing is brought up ONLY if it helps crack the code. It might be totally unrelated...
About a year ago, our ice maker water flow did not stop when refilling the trays. It continues to pour all over and make a mess. We turned off the laser “emitter/ receiver” switch in the freezer compartment. Water kept flowing. We pulled the 110V wall plug out. Water stopped flowing. For the last year, I’ve been making ice with trays. After my “Fix” 3 weeks ago, I figured I’d try the icemaker again. Same thing. Water would continue to flow until I unplugged the power supply. That would tell me this is not a stuck water solenoid, but something else.
Ideas?
Thanks. Watt-man
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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Need model # from sticker in fridg.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/2/2011(UTC) Posts: 3
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I appreciate the help. Model number is GS5SHAXNL00. Manufactured in November 2005.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/2/2011(UTC) Posts: 3
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Update: Still freezing the evaporator. I made a 110V harness to run directly to the heating element, and also attached a thermocouple directly to the element. Bottom line: element is good. I physically watched the defrosting process, even cycled the element like the fridge does (per the manual)... 5 minutes on (well, I went 6), 1 off, 2 on, 2 off, 2 on , 2 off.... Entertainment: element temperature goes over 800F! Wow. Hey, if you want to melt a lot of ice in 14 minutes, I guess that makes sense. Not gonna happen with a 120° element. One interesting by-product of the test is in the late stages of the defrost process (minutes 10-12 in this case) water is dropping directly on the element so it's much cooler and doesn't get quite as hot where my thermocouple is. Any advice? I'll add a ohmmeter across the thermostat to be sure it's closed while I defrost - I'm presently plugging in the defrosting element once per day and the fridge is working well. How often do control boards die? I ran the factory diagnostics and it came up with a "pass". Watt-man attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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Seems like the pc board in the back controls defrost AP4334000, I would replace it, should fix the defrost problem.
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