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Should I try a new capacitor?

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My Maytag side by side was working fine, though running hot. until about a month ago when I read about

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Old 08-16-2011, 07:28 PM
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Default Should I try a new capacitor?
Model Number: MSD2456GEW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My Maytag side by side was working fine, though running hot. until about a month ago when I read about the large recall and scheduled a service call to replace the "possibly defective" relay switch. Soon after the first tech's visit, the unit stopped working. At the second visit, the same tech opened the back to check that the compressor and its fan were working. We both noted cold air coming into both freezer and fridge. However, the temp never fell to working well, despite the cool breezes. Third visit, new tech did same thing but also opened panel inside back of freezer to check that ice was forming. It was. When he left the unit was not working but later that eve it started to work and the next day ice cubes started to form, the freezer made it to 0, possibly a touch lower, even, and the fridge cooled down to about 45. However, a day later it all melted again. Today the same tech returned and told me that I needed a new capacitor, that there was no connection between the capacitor's failure and the relay replacement, and that I would have to pay a service charge because there was now no relation to the original recall item. I told him I would not agree to pay for the visit because I had a working fridge before the recall and considered them responsible for the failure. He said it was a total coincidence. The part and labor charge to replace the capacitor would be about 268. He also said there was no guarantee that changing the capacitor would solve the problem but that was the last step before considering the problem to be the compressor, which would not be worth replacing. If the new capacitor did not solve the problem I should buy a new fridge.
So, I did not agree to have him order the new capacitor, but I am considering ordering one from you and installing it myself. Is that advisable? Any other thoughts? I did not immediately call Maytag because I had to rush off to work, but also I wanted to compose my thoughts first. It has been a whole month now, and I am lucky to have a small fridge downstairs that I have been using, (It is even older, a 2000 Frigidaire, top freezer, no ice maker or dispenser, and so far so good.)
thanks for any advice or ideas.


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Old 08-17-2011, 03:13 AM
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I would never use this tech again, seems incompetent.These run capacitors are very reliable, most probably ok.
I need more input from you to fix the problem. Tell me what is running/not running when it fails.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:33 PM
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Default the company chose and sent the techs......

Thank you very much for answering. I did not choose this tech or this company. Because of the recall, Maytag sent the techs through their contract company, A+E. I am getting close to my wit's end, even though I do have the downstairs fridge in the meantime.
One thing that made me wonder was that articles about refrigerators always say to unplug it and then to discharge the capacitor before proceeding. When the tech told me there was no juice at the capacitor I was very suspicious.
Before I unplugged the unit yesterday, the lights were on. Inside the freezer at the back I could feel that the fan was blowing. A little breeze was also reaching the fridge. Temp on both sides above 70. The water dispenser worked, but no chill. (no ice, of course.) The fridge feels cool to the touch at spots along the back. The compressor fan was moving. I heard clicks from the compressor area also.
I keep recalling that the entire thing worked fine (though the strip between fridge and freezer and a spot on top of freezer were very warm) before the tech came to replace the (possibly defective) relay switch.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:29 AM
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Your compressor uses a run capacitor, should be little effect on starting unless it is shorted which is very rare. If it is shorted, it would blow out the start winding.
It is possible he blew out the compressor when he worked on it.
You will need an ohmeter to test the compressor, please advise if you have one.
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:06 AM
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no, don't have an ohmeter.
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Old 08-19-2011, 01:18 AM
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I would just buy one,they are cheap enough at Wall Mart. Without it, you will not be able to figure out what the problem is.
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:15 PM
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Will do, it seems like a handy thing to have in any case.
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:20 PM
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p.s. I called them again today and a tech will be coming next Wed. This will be the 5th visit.
Meanwhile, I saw the sticky about testing for continuity, and would appreciate any advice so I will be well prepared.
Notably, last week, the tech first tried to charge for the visit (that Maytag/Whirlpool authorized as a follow-up) and then tried to charge me for a part that a. I didn't know if it was really faulty, b. he said it had no connection to previous work or the relay switch, and c. the best, he said there was no guarantee that replacing the capacitor would solve the problem but it was cheaper than getting a new compressor or a new fridge, which were his other suggestions.
I am getting fed up but I also don't want to buy a new fridge unless I really have to....
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Old 08-20-2011, 04:22 AM
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Remove the cover on the side of the compressor, keep the wires attached to the small, black ptc device and klixon, then remove both items.
The round compressor terminals are in a triangle configuration, usually one on top and two on the bottom, but sometimes the terminals are upside down. The top terminal is the common one, measure ohms between it and either bottom terminal. One will measure around 4 ohms, the other 6 ohms.
Measuring across both bottom terminals must be the sum of the two. Post results.
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