Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/16/2011(UTC) Posts: 2
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Hello everyone - On Saturday night I noticed my refrigerator having an unusual humming/buzzing sound. I unplugged it for 45 minutes, plugged it back in, and everything sounded normal. Sunday morning I woke up and it sounded like my refrigerator was still running, but I found it to be nearly room temperature inside!
I'm a complete novice, but figured since money was tight, I'd try to do it myself - after some reading, I thought it might be the defrost timer since it appeared it wasn't passing some of the standard continuity tests between terminals 1-4 and 1-2. However, that did not solve the problem, but I noticed that the compressor 'clicked' ever few minutes.
So I took my multimeter and tested the pins on the compressor - noting that they read 5/6/11 - from what I understand, since they add up to the high number, the compressor isn't bound-up? Or should the two lesser ones be equal? I also tested continuity between pins, noting all pins tested positive. Finally, I tested for grounding and didn't note any grounding of the compressor from any pin.
So I bought a new relay/overload (even though my relay didn't rattle, I figured it was worth a shot). Well, I replaced both and the refrigerator still clicks. I'm out of ideas and ready to buy a new refrigerator, however if I can salvage this one, I'd transfer it downstairs as a back-up/spare room. Anyone have any tips on something I'm missing?
Thanks!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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I would measure the voltage to the compressor, verify it's 115 volts. If ok, I would use an amprobe to verify if the compressor is drawing "normal" current. Normal current should be around 1.2 amp, much higher would indicate a bad compressor. Current way over 9 amps when the compressor tries to start would also indicate a bad compressor.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/16/2011(UTC) Posts: 2
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Thanks for the tips - that may be a little over my head (I'm still not 100% comfortable working with machinery with live electricity), but I'll do some more research and might have to default to a professional with all of the right equipment.
One basic question that I'm having a hard time sorting out (I'm at work, so I can't try it out now, but will when I get home) - but would dirty condenser coils cause the overload to trip and the condenser not to run? The refrigerator came with the house when I bought it about 2 years ago - and I know it hasn't been cleaned since I moved in. When I opened the back of it up, it was dusty, and I shop-vac'd the condenser and fan assemblies, but didn't get under to the coils. I know even after moving the refrigerator there was long strip of lint/dust that was embedded at the bottom - so there's no doubt it's dirty. Would that overload of dust prevent the condenser from ever booting up - or just to overheat quickly and shut down (I ask because after I unplug the refrigerator, the condenser itself is warm to the touch, and I didn't know if that meant anything)?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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No, the dirty coils usually will not cause compressor failure unless they where badly clogged up and the room temperature was very high. Hard starting can be due to a damaged start winding from a power surge or thermal overload, internal varnish buildup, or simple compressor mechanical failure.
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