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Fridge and freezer were hot this morning, no fans running. Checked the temperture controls by unplugging - had no effect.

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Old 08-06-2011, 02:46 PM
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Default Fridge not cooling
Model Number: PTS22LCPARBB   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Fridge and freezer were hot this morning, no fans running. Checked the temperture controls by unplugging - had no effect. Removed the cover from the thermistor in the freezer compartment and when I began to handle it the fan tried to run. I replaced the 2 thermistors( got lucky with parts on a Sat) in the fridge and freezer, but not the one on the coil. Both fans started running but I couldn't tell if the compressor was running or not. The tempeture is dropping but very slowly. After 3 1/2 hours it has dropped about 10 degrees to 62. I don't think I have fixed this thing yet. I don't think the compressor is running but why would the temp drop any if it weren't. Don't here any clicks like the starter relay trying to kick in. Any suggestions out there? Thanks


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2011, 10:06 AM
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Most probable problem is the motherboard in the back. Just remove the board and check the back by the big power relay. If you find bad solder connections, you can re-solder them, rather easy to do.
If ok, I would order a new board AP4436216 and also replace the evaporator thermistor, may be responsible for the fridg. hanging up in defrost.
If you have a meter, you can check it immersed in a cup of ice cubes, should read 16.3 kohm.
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
Most probable problem is the motherboard in the back. Just remove the board and check the back by the big power relay. If you find bad solder connections, you can re-solder them, rather easy to do.
If ok, I would order a new board AP4436216 and also replace the evaporator thermistor, may be responsible for the fridg. hanging up in defrost.
If you have a meter, you can check it immersed in a cup of ice cubes, should read 16.3 kohm.

Thanks for the reply - after looking at every available advice yesterday I noticed how many times replacing the board was the solution. I took mine off, located at the top of the cabinet, and looked it over. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary; no black marks etc. I bought all of the thermistors the parts place had and there weren't enough to replace the one at the evaporator. I wondered if I could by pass it by twisting the wires together just to see if was causing the problem. I guess once I have it cut loose I could ohm it too. The ones I did replace had domed tops. The new ones were flat as is the remainig one on the evaporator.

I saw one post that said if both fans were running and the compressor wasn't then it was a bad compressor. Do those things not go bad? If I start replacing parts that cost a couple of hundred bucks apiece then it won't be long before i'm into a new refrigerator. Thanks
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:25 AM
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Rather rare these GE compressors fail unless you have a refrigerant leak.
Pull the back freezer panel and check the frost pattern, if partially frosted, you have refrigeration system problems.
If unsure about compressor running, or the power to the compressor is intermittent, go to the motherboard in the back, and unplug fridg.
Pull the 3 pin power connector and place a wire jumper between the mating connector pins that are labled line and comp as shown on the motherboard.
Now plug in fridg and see if it chills down to "normal" temperatures.
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Old 08-07-2011, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
Rather rare these GE compressors fail unless you have a refrigerant leak.
Pull the back freezer panel and check the frost pattern, if partially frosted, you have refrigeration system problems.
If unsure about compressor running, or the power to the compressor is intermittent, go to the motherboard in the back, and unplug fridg.
Pull the 3 pin power connector and place a wire jumper between the mating connector pins that are labled line and comp as shown on the motherboard.
Now plug in fridg and see if it chills down to "normal" temperatures.
We might be talking about a different board...The only 3 pin connector I see is being used a junction in the wiring harness. The backside has some female pins with nothing in them. 3 wires run from this junction to a 5 pin connector on the board. 2 pins are empty but nothing is labeled. I did notice a discolored area on the board around a heat sink on the left side.
The wire jumper sounds like a good idea; just can't find the spot. It never cooled below 62 so I unplugged it - can't check for frost patterns. thanks.
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:30 PM
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The motherboard in the back, it has a cover over it.
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
The motherboard in the back, it has a cover over it.
Yeah got that. I meant that this particular board doesn't have what you describe so it might be an older version. Are you referring to a schematic or the actual board that has line and comp written on it. The power supply is on a 5 pin connector that uses 3 of the ports but there isn't anything printed that refers to line or comp -only j4. a nine pin above it has "evap" beside a connector but other than that everything is alphanumeric. The new part number you referred to shows a similar board but not the same one. There are several connectors that unplug and the 3 pin that I mentioned that is a junction in the wiring harness meaning that 2 sets of wires are crimped in the same hole.
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:36 AM
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The motherboard that your model# shows is part AP4436216, unless you made a mistake in the model #
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