[biggun]

Freezer not freezing. Fan not running, compressor is warm to the touch. Any ideas on what to look at first?

[biggun]

This unit is a refurbished model bought at the factory. The model number that I found was on a sticker on the back of the unit, which, evidently is wrong. I have looked everywhere inside the freezer, as well as behind the toeplate and still haven't found a model number. Any help with finding the solution as to why it isn't working would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[kooler]

Not having the model number makes it difficult, assuming the fan that's not running is a condenser fan by the compressor then check for power going to this motor to see if it's bad... If it's the fan inside the freezer then it's possible this motor is bad or will not power up unless the evaporator is cold.. Which would bring you back to the compressor, is it running, is their a clicking sound indicating the compressor is attempting to start? Clicking sound may indicate defective relay or compressor... Obtain a replacement relay (AP3149131) to see if the compressor will start up... Another option is a relay combo (AP3540659) that includes the overload and a capacitor... That option is assuming your compressor is a 1/4 or 1/3 HP one... Hope this helps, kooler

[biggun]

After further investigation it seems that the freezer stopped in the defrost mode. I turned the timer with the screw in the back and the compressor came on. If I turn the timer until the compressor shuts off again, there is power going to the defrost (from the timer). Is that a switch mounted on the coils that the wires to the defrost coils go to? And is this "switch" controlled by temperature? Do you think my timer is bad or this "switch"? Or both?

Thanks

Biggun

[richappy]

You have a bad defrost timer. Your old timer is probably a 21 minute defrost and 8 hour compressor run time. I would replace it with a GE timer p# 9x330 a much more reliable timer.Or you can go with a universal timer (electronic) P # EDT10
Per my catalog they all look the same and should mount in there, the electrical connections should be at the same places as the old one, but I usually verify with an ohms check.