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tinbender66  
#1 Posted : Monday, July 4, 2011 1:45:28 PM(UTC)
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tinbender66

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Joined: 7/3/2011(UTC)
Posts: 1

As you mentioned, the back wall of the freezer compartment is forming ice. According to one of your answers one of the first things to check is the defrost timer. This model does not appear to have one according to the parts diagram and list. The compressor is running (it's pretty warm) and the fan in the freezer runs almost constantly. Right now the temp in the freezer is in the mid 20's and the fridge is in the mid to upper 40's. 45 degree milk is not good on my cheerios:) . I don't want to buy a new one right now, so if you have any ideas I would welcome them. I'm a pretty competent DIY'er but not much of a fridge troubleshooter. Thanks, Paul

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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, July 5, 2011 1:21:49 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRT21PRHW3 Frg(v4) / Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 23 in Section 3) till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 14 in Section 4) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 21 in Section 4) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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