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Hi Julio, GE has redesigned this part a few times and the last version is WR55X10942. Gene.

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  #281 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2012, 02:35 PM
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Hi Julio,

GE has redesigned this part a few times and the last version is WR55X10942.

Gene.

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  #282 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2012, 02:52 PM
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Thank you very much for your help, I really appreciate it! Hope you're having a great start into your week!
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  #283 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2012, 02:54 PM
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.

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  #284 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2012, 02:41 PM
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Default GE GDS20SBSASS clicking fixed for 44 cents

Hi all,
My GE GDS20SBSASS developed the "click of death" on a Sunday and was dead by Monday
Thanks to this thread it is now fixed I am *not* a pro at this, a real amateur in fact, so I would encourage anyone with enough time and patience to try to fix this on their own instead of give one more red cent to GE!
Although this information is already in this thread, I thought I'd detail my fix too.
I'm located in Canada and when I phoned GE about the problem they stated that there was no free fix for this, i.e., they would not pay for repairs or send me a new board. I referenced the service bulletin referenced on various sites on the Internet and they claimed to have no knowledge of it.
I phoned a local appliance repair place and they quoted $400 for parts and labour.
Then I came across this thread. So I just decided to fix it myself. Price: 44 cents to replace two failed capacitors. Well, I actually spent about $11 because I replaced two capacitors that were on the verge of failing, although it seems I might be the first one in this thread to have these particular caps start to swell/fail.
The "click of death" was found to be coming from the panel on the back of my fridge. Unplugging the fridge and opening up the panel showed that the two small capacitors next to the top-most heatsink were swelled up and had obviously failed . However, I also saw that the two large capacitors next to the bottom-most heatsink were also swelled up. I've marked the 4 capacitors in question with red dots in this image (the two small capacitors are unfortunately covered up by the green tag).

Here are some detailed photos of the failed capacitors. Note that the small capacitors don’t appear to be all that bad looking – but if you look closely the tops are indeed not flat but rather a bit ballooned/swelled up. This means they have failed.
Small capacitors:




Large capacitors:



The original specifications of the capacitors are as follows:
Small: 470uF / 25V / 105 degrees Celsius
Large: 47uF / 400V / 85 degrees Celsius
I went to a local electronics store that sells capacitors (no radio shack here). This store did not have direct replacements for these caps but had ones that were higher quality. Apparently the only thing that really matters is that the microfarads (uF) rating is the same. So I walked out with the following caps:
Small: 470uF / 35V / 105 Celsius
Large: 47uF / 450V / 105 Celsius
The small ones were $0.22 each and the large ones were $5 each. The fact that the original 400V caps were rated at 85 Celsius (and placed right next to a heatsink) is probably what caused them to start swelling. The new ones are rated at 105 Celsius so this is definitely an improvement.
Next, I viewed this helpful video on desoldering and resoldering capacitors:

Installation and Removal of Capacitors - YouTube

Note that the caps on my board were glued down. I discovered that the bond could be broken by applying sideways pressure on the caps. Don’t be afraid of breaking them – they’re already broken!
Small caps removed:


New small caps:



Small caps soldered back on (before cutting the excess wire):


After desoldering and replacing the small caps only, I plugged the board back into my fridge and it came to life. This confirmed that the large 400V caps on my board were still good...for now. I debated whether I should fix something that wasn’t (yet) broken, but took courage from my success so far and decided to replace the large caps also. Also, the replacement (450V) caps that I purchased were somewhat taller than the originals, and this was likely to cause a problem with the access panel closing correctly. This photo shows the size difference:


I decided to proceed anyway. Here is a photo of the result once installed in the fridge:


As you can see, the access panel will no longer fit correctly. The top two screws of the access panel can be installed, but the bottom one cannot. This means my access panel has a gap at the bottom where it is not completely closed. Is this a problem? I’m not sure, but I don’t think it will be. Feel free to tell me if I’m insane and this is actually going to burn my house down and kill my family and neighbours. Incidentally, the metal access panel is now touching the tops of the capacitors and acting as a heatsink. I assume since the tops of the capacitors are insulated that this is a good thing rather than a liability? Any pros out there feel free to comment.
Sorry for the long post, but I thought I’d show my gratitude to the other contributors in this thread by being thorough.
BTW, I found this interesting – possibly related to our GE fridge problems?
Capacitor plague - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
And am I the only one that thinks that placing capacitors immediately next to heat sinks is a design flaw that any thinking electrical engineer would be aware of? Is this “design flaw” actually just an example of planned obsolescence?
Planned obsolescence - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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  #285 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2012, 07:39 AM
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Default Nice Work apmp945!

Nice Work and a great lesson for everyone apmp945! Yes having the motherboard exposed does create additional risk that could cause additional problems like fire or death. Being eager is OK but always tell others that they also need to use care because not everyone will understand just what may happen. You also need to remember that the motherboard takes a lot of hits every day from surge, defrost, starting and stopping the compressor and fans. A bad fan motor, start relay and run capacitor can also damage a motherboard. Get that cover over the motherboard and post a warning and you may be fine until next time...Technicianseabreeze
Quote:
Originally Posted by apmp945 View Post
Hi all,
My GE GDS20SBSASS developed the "click of death" on a Sunday and was dead by Monday
Thanks to this thread it is now fixed I am *not* a pro at this, a real amateur in fact, so I would encourage anyone with enough time and patience to try to fix this on their own instead of give one more red cent to GE!
Although this information is already in this thread, I thought I'd detail my fix too.
I'm located in Canada and when I phoned GE about the problem they stated that there was no free fix for this, i.e., they would not pay for repairs or send me a new board. I referenced the service bulletin referenced on various sites on the Internet and they claimed to have no knowledge of it.
I phoned a local appliance repair place and they quoted $400 for parts and labour.
Then I came across this thread. So I just decided to fix it myself. Price: 44 cents to replace two failed capacitors. Well, I actually spent about $11 because I replaced two capacitors that were on the verge of failing, although it seems I might be the first one in this thread to have these particular caps start to swell/fail.
The "click of death" was found to be coming from the panel on the back of my fridge. Unplugging the fridge and opening up the panel showed that the two small capacitors next to the top-most heatsink were swelled up and had obviously failed . However, I also saw that the two large capacitors next to the bottom-most heatsink were also swelled up. I've marked the 4 capacitors in question with red dots in this image (the two small capacitors are unfortunately covered up by the green tag).

Here are some detailed photos of the failed capacitors. Note that the small capacitors don’t appear to be all that bad looking – but if you look closely the tops are indeed not flat but rather a bit ballooned/swelled up. This means they have failed.
Small capacitors:




Large capacitors:



The original specifications of the capacitors are as follows:
Small: 470uF / 25V / 105 degrees Celsius
Large: 47uF / 400V / 85 degrees Celsius
I went to a local electronics store that sells capacitors (no radio shack here). This store did not have direct replacements for these caps but had ones that were higher quality. Apparently the only thing that really matters is that the microfarads (uF) rating is the same. So I walked out with the following caps:
Small: 470uF / 35V / 105 Celsius
Large: 47uF / 450V / 105 Celsius
The small ones were $0.22 each and the large ones were $5 each. The fact that the original 400V caps were rated at 85 Celsius (and placed right next to a heatsink) is probably what caused them to start swelling. The new ones are rated at 105 Celsius so this is definitely an improvement.
Next, I viewed this helpful video on desoldering and resoldering capacitors:

Installation and Removal of Capacitors - YouTube

Note that the caps on my board were glued down. I discovered that the bond could be broken by applying sideways pressure on the caps. Don’t be afraid of breaking them – they’re already broken!
Small caps removed:


New small caps:



Small caps soldered back on (before cutting the excess wire):


After desoldering and replacing the small caps only, I plugged the board back into my fridge and it came to life. This confirmed that the large 400V caps on my board were still good...for now. I debated whether I should fix something that wasn’t (yet) broken, but took courage from my success so far and decided to replace the large caps also. Also, the replacement (450V) caps that I purchased were somewhat taller than the originals, and this was likely to cause a problem with the access panel closing correctly. This photo shows the size difference:


I decided to proceed anyway. Here is a photo of the result once installed in the fridge:


As you can see, the access panel will no longer fit correctly. The top two screws of the access panel can be installed, but the bottom one cannot. This means my access panel has a gap at the bottom where it is not completely closed. Is this a problem? I’m not sure, but I don’t think it will be. Feel free to tell me if I’m insane and this is actually going to burn my house down and kill my family and neighbours. Incidentally, the metal access panel is now touching the tops of the capacitors and acting as a heatsink. I assume since the tops of the capacitors are insulated that this is a good thing rather than a liability? Any pros out there feel free to comment.
Sorry for the long post, but I thought I’d show my gratitude to the other contributors in this thread by being thorough.
BTW, I found this interesting – possibly related to our GE fridge problems?
Capacitor plague - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
And am I the only one that thinks that placing capacitors immediately next to heat sinks is a design flaw that any thinking electrical engineer would be aware of? Is this “design flaw” actually just an example of planned obsolescence?
Planned obsolescence - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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  #286 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 08:57 AM
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I have an PFS22SBSBSS and have been experieincing a clicking noise.
I replaced the board but seems like the consdenser doesnt kick on and its still clicking.

Not sure what else it could be. any advice?
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  #287 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2013, 01:28 PM
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Hello,

Test the compressor as described in one of our previous threads: GE refrigerator just clicks but does not cool

If the compressor checks OK, replace the compressor start relay.

- The compressor start relay Part number: WR07X10097

Part number: WR07X10097



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for GE PFS22SBSBSS Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
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  #288 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2013, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Hello,

Test the compressor as described in one of our previous threads: GE refrigerator just clicks but does not cool

If the compressor checks OK, replace the compressor start relay.

- The compressor start relay Part number: WR07X10097

Part number: WR07X10097



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for GE PFS22SBSBSS Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
thanks Gene. I orderd a new starter relay. Once it comes in Ill install and let you know what happens. Thanks for your advice. Ill keep you posted.
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  #289 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2013, 01:19 PM
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Default weird thing is happening

Quote:
Originally Posted by rlagm3 View Post
thanks Gene. I orderd a new starter relay. Once it comes in Ill install and let you know what happens. Thanks for your advice. Ill keep you posted.

The starter relay part worked!!! but now when i just opened the fridge, there was no power and when i pulled on the french doors to pull the fridge away from the wall its agianst, the lights came on..

I just replaced the board last week so its almost like the power cord was pinched against the wall and when i pulled it away, it came back on..

thanks!
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  #290 (permalink)  
Old 04-21-2013, 08:37 AM
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Hi apmp945

Fantastic report. I was motivated to fix similar problem on GE wr 55X 10416.
Fridge is functioning now; no clicking, BUT the condenser fan is slower and evaporator motor breakdown that damaged the PCB is temporary replaced with a computer 12V fan.
Hope GE management will REPLACE the MOTHERBOARD and FAN FREE.
I replaced my GE of 20 yrs with this energy saver. LOL
Thanks.

Last edited by ikedeen : 04-21-2013 at 08:42 AM.
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