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Most times in a case like this GE ony covers the first year on some parts andI believe 5 years

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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2010, 12:48 PM
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Most times in a case like this GE ony covers the first year on some parts andI believe 5 years on seal compressor components. The bad thing about these motherboards is that when they fail there is a domino effect until other parts of the board and or compressor and compressor start components fail. It would be less for you to unplug and replace the board than to pay for a free board installed by a qualified GE Technician. There is much to know about GE and their Artica and Profiles. Let me know, Technicianseabreeze APPLIANCE911 and GE ARTICA PROFILE TECHNICAL INFORMATION

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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2010, 06:11 AM
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Default Loud Noise

You will need to contact customer service. My fridge was from 2005 and it was still covered under the $100 board replacement policy.

Even though the control board was replaced, I'm still getting a noise from the ice maker. It's high pitch like a when a motor is juiced but jammed. The ice maker is full of cubes. I need to shut off the ice maker to confirm the noise. I'm suspecting this noise is what took out the board in the first place cause it was present prior to having the board replaced. Help!
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2010, 09:31 PM
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The main board was exactly my problem. When I plugged it in it clicked constantly from the main board. I called GE and they offered to send someone but didn't mention a recall when I asked. I ordered the board and it was simple to install. Everything is now back up and running!
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2010, 07:48 AM
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Default Clicking GE Refrigerator Fix GSH22JFREWW Main Board

P1060384.jpg

P1060391.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by usna87 View Post
This worked for me too...

This morning, wife said "ice cubes are melting"...same symptoms as everyone else in this thread. Was about to shell out $150 to order a board and then looked closer. 2 470uF caps near the top right heat sink were bulging a bit. Ran to the local electronics shop and picked up a couple new ones for $5. Everything is humming along smoothly now. This board is a life saver! Thanks to all of you!
(June 4, 2010)
Just to back up what the above poster and others have said, replacement of the two 470uF electrolytic capacitors located next to the heat sink worked for me as well.
My GE model number is: GSH22J FRE WW. It's about 6-7 years old and I've previously disassembled the entire freezer, searching for the source of an annoying howl or whining that seems to happen during the defrost cycle. Total waste of time and effort! Seems as though that poorly designed main FPC (motherboard) is to blame for most problems in these GE's.
Yesterday morning the refrigerator died completely-no cooling in either refrige or freezer. I could hear a rythmic clicking sound coming from the rear of the unit. It seemed to be loudest around the main circuit board compartment, which is really easy to access, by the way-a few screws, a plate and there it is, big green and ugly.
I noticed that every time it clicked, the condenser fan would move a bit and then stop (the fan would spin freely when I moved it with my finger, so it wasn't jammed or seized up).
At that point, I did a Google, found this thread, called GE and made an appointment, Unfortunately, the fastest they could get here was in 4 days and the estimated cost was $189.00 for the part plus "labor". Not an option!
I immediately returned to this site and decided to try the fix mentioned by several members, even though I'm no electrician. Had to do it, otherwise all the food would be toast, including the bread! I could clearly see that two of the caps were bulging out on top and one of the outer jackets appeared to be half slid off, so it was a no brainer.
If you've ever used a soldering iron, even if it was to burn doodles on wood as a kid, I would strongly suggest attempting this repair! It's that easy. Soldering iron costs $10. 2 caps (272-1030 Shack pt #) cost $4. You do the math. If you're afraid to remove a few plugs, and release pins to get the board off (with the refrige unplugged first, thanks) then forget it, just call GE or a local guy and hope they get there before all your food goes South.
I'm going to try to include a few pictures here that might help, but not sure if this site allows pix....I've circled the defective caps on the main board before removal and the next pic shows them removed and replaced with the new blue R Shack parts, which were a slightly different size and voltage (300v, not 250v), but were 470uF, just like the defective ones and there was no problem fitting them in. I tried to keep them as far away from the heat sink as possible, since that's what probably killed them in the first place.
The sound of that fridge starting right up after this fix is a beautiful thing! Thanks to all the previous posters here who figured this one out! IOU!

BTW, I ordered the main board from this site today anyway, even though the refridge is working because I don't trust the buggy, poorly designed nature of the thing. They've redesigned it multiple times since mine was made and judging by what others have said here, it's responsible for way too many opperational errors to be trusted as is, despite my fix. I'd rather not have to worry about losing everything in the unit sometime down the road. It cost me $129.54 including shipping, which is less than GE would have charged me for the part alone. Good deal, efficient people in the order department and definately a great site and thread. Thanks again!

Last edited by Mysterficksit : 06-04-2010 at 07:51 AM.
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2010, 01:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mysterficksit View Post
Attachment 1871

Attachment 1872

(June 4, 2010)
Just to back up what the above poster and others have said, replacement of the two 470uF electrolytic capacitors located next to the heat sink worked for me as well.
My GE model number is: GSH22J FRE WW. It's about 6-7 years old and I've previously disassembled the entire freezer, searching for the source of an annoying howl or whining that seems to happen during the defrost cycle. Total waste of time and effort! Seems as though that poorly designed main FPC (motherboard) is to blame for most problems in these GE's.
Yesterday morning the refrigerator died completely-no cooling in either refrige or freezer. I could hear a rythmic clicking sound coming from the rear of the unit. It seemed to be loudest around the main circuit board compartment, which is really easy to access, by the way-a few screws, a plate and there it is, big green and ugly.
I noticed that every time it clicked, the condenser fan would move a bit and then stop (the fan would spin freely when I moved it with my finger, so it wasn't jammed or seized up).
At that point, I did a Google, found this thread, called GE and made an appointment, Unfortunately, the fastest they could get here was in 4 days and the estimated cost was $189.00 for the part plus "labor". Not an option!
I immediately returned to this site and decided to try the fix mentioned by several members, even though I'm no electrician. Had to do it, otherwise all the food would be toast, including the bread! I could clearly see that two of the caps were bulging out on top and one of the outer jackets appeared to be half slid off, so it was a no brainer.
If you've ever used a soldering iron, even if it was to burn doodles on wood as a kid, I would strongly suggest attempting this repair! It's that easy. Soldering iron costs $10. 2 caps (272-1030 Shack pt #) cost $4. You do the math. If you're afraid to remove a few plugs, and release pins to get the board off (with the refrige unplugged first, thanks) then forget it, just call GE or a local guy and hope they get there before all your food goes South.
I'm going to try to include a few pictures here that might help, but not sure if this site allows pix....I've circled the defective caps on the main board before removal and the next pic shows them removed and replaced with the new blue R Shack parts, which were a slightly different size and voltage (300v, not 250v), but were 470uF, just like the defective ones and there was no problem fitting them in. I tried to keep them as far away from the heat sink as possible, since that's what probably killed them in the first place.
The sound of that fridge starting right up after this fix is a beautiful thing! Thanks to all the previous posters here who figured this one out! IOU!

BTW, I ordered the main board from this site today anyway, even though the refridge is working because I don't trust the buggy, poorly designed nature of the thing. They've redesigned it multiple times since mine was made and judging by what others have said here, it's responsible for way too many opperational errors to be trusted as is, despite my fix. I'd rather not have to worry about losing everything in the unit sometime down the road. It cost me $129.54 including shipping, which is less than GE would have charged me for the part alone. Good deal, efficient people in the order department and definately a great site and thread. Thanks again!
Thats pretty impressive going the sautering route. I thought i was in for spending 1000+ for a new fridge when it broke. I went the route of ordering the board and just popping the old one out and new one in. I had as much satisfaction as you did when i plugged the fridge in and it fired right up!!! My wife looked at me with a look of amazement, hehe. I'm comfortable with swapping system boards, etc. I've worked on computers/servers for years. But sautering, etc, zilch experience. And you are right, this site rules. Saved me 1000+ dollars.

Last edited by davecramer74 : 06-05-2010 at 01:46 AM.
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2010, 06:08 AM
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Default Dead GE Refrigerator clicks, bad board, easy fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by davecramer74 View Post
Thats pretty impressive going the sautering route. I thought i was in for spending 1000+ for a new fridge when it broke. I went the route of ordering the board and just popping the old one out and new one in. I had as much satisfaction as you did when i plugged the fridge in and it fired right up!!! My wife looked at me with a look of amazement, hehe. I'm comfortable with swapping system boards, etc. I've worked on computers/servers for years. But sautering, etc, zilch experience. And you are right, this site rules. Saved me 1000+ dollars.
Sometimes, depending on the situation, it really pays off when you invest some time and effort on a problem like this one-before you fork over cash to a "qualified professional". No offense to all the great techs out there!

When it's something that's way beyond my crappy skills, I'm more than happy to pay a pro to do it. I even accept the fact that a hefty price tag for a quick fix is OK, since you're paying for the tech's EXPERIENCE, not how easy it seemed to be or how long it took. Paying a pro to get out of a real jam efficiently is cool with me.

That said, you just don't want to get into the habit of running to the phone book every time something breaks down before at least taking a crack at it.

If GE had been able to send someone over quickly, before all the food in the fridge spoiled, I would have gone that route. Or if I could have gottten the mother board locally at a decent price, etc. Since these things weren't an option, I got motivated to do it on my own.

You mentioned the look on your wife's face when that refrigerator started up. If its a wife, a friend, neighbor, whoever-that look is just about priceless....and worth every minute of your time and effort!

Thanks for the feedback!
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2010, 08:10 PM
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Thumbs down GE clicking

We have just been blessed with the infamous clicking sound from our GE fridge (Model GDS20SBSASS) since last night; it resolved on its own for 5 hrs only to come back and we have proceeded to empty the contents since it does not appear to be functional.
Basically a clicking that does not allow the relay to start the fan, I believe.

Browsing the boards, it seems to be a motherboard issue. What should we do next; we have an appt with a GE service tech for Tuesday thinking that this should be covered under the 5 year warranty but I am unsure if it really would be under the warranty.

Can I do this myself? What do I need?
Frustrated GE buyer

Thank you
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 06-13-2010, 12:04 PM
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Default Clicking GE refrigerator model GDS20SBSASS

Quote:
Originally Posted by MtlCanadien View Post
We have just been blessed with the infamous clicking sound from our GE fridge (Model GDS20SBSASS) since last night; it resolved on its own for 5 hrs only to come back and we have proceeded to empty the contents since it does not appear to be functional.
Basically a clicking that does not allow the relay to start the fan, I believe.

Browsing the boards, it seems to be a motherboard issue. What should we do next; we have an appt with a GE service tech for Tuesday thinking that this should be covered under the 5 year warranty but I am unsure if it really would be under the warranty.

Can I do this myself? What do I need?
Frustrated GE buyer

Thank you
Sometimes, unplugging the refrigerator for 10-15 minutes and then plugging back in will temporarily solve the problem, so at least you have some extra time before the food spoils. If that doesn't solve the problem, you still have 6-10 hours or so before the contents go bad-as long as you KEEP THE DOORS CLOSED as much as possible!

Unless you're willing and able to follow the route I took (listed above, with pictures and explanation), and inspect the main board for swollen capacitors and find, remove and replace them with new ones, (cost is less than $5.00 if you have your own soldering iron/gun) then I would suggest waiting until the GE tech comes on Tuesday. Who knows, you might get lucky with some kind of partial warranty discount, at least.

If you decided to change the entire main board yourself, which is really simple, the price is fairly high (around $179.00?) and the earliest you could get one would be Monday morning anyway, plus you'd have to find a local parts supplier in your area who actually has one in stock.

Unfortunately, since it broke on the weekend, you have even fewer options than I did-sorry!

Would be good if you could post on this thread what the outcome was-after the refrigerator is up and running again. Could help the next guy who finds themselves in the same situation. Thanks.
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2010, 02:03 PM
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The GE tech came by, listened to the clicking sound, replaced the board (WR55X10552-$222.67) and within 7 minutes, my Mastercard was showing a $341 debit.
Not sure if I should fight this out with GE, asked tech if part was under warranty since 4.5 years seemed early for breakdown. His answer of course was "it's electrical"; it just went.

Anyway, down 350 but at least don't have to go up and down stairs.
Thanks
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 06-16-2010, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtlCanadien View Post
The GE tech came by, listened to the clicking sound, replaced the board (WR55X10552-$222.67) and within 7 minutes, my Mastercard was showing a $341 debit.
Not sure if I should fight this out with GE, asked tech if part was under warranty since 4.5 years seemed early for breakdown. His answer of course was "it's electrical"; it just went.

Anyway, down 350 but at least don't have to go up and down stairs.
Thanks
07-15-2008, 02:01 PM




Are you sure your refrigerator was less than 5 years old?
If it was definitely less than 5 years old, I would Call GE consumer relations 800 386 1215 or at 1-800-626-2224 or 1-800-626-2005 and demand a partial refund be credited back to your card.

Also, try to use this telephone number (1-888-456-7445) for GE Insurance so you can make a claim for any food that was spoiled! Not sure about this one, but it's worth a shot!



If the serial# is included in GE's warranty program (which is covering all these defective main board problems) and it is 0-3 years old, service, parts and labor are free, 3-5 years $100 and over 5 years is normal pricing, about $300+.

Good luck. No sense paying such a considerable amount of money for what appears to be an ongoing factory defect which should be either recalled or serviced under warranty.





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