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ftimbo  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, June 21, 2011 6:28:52 PM(UTC)
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ftimbo

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Hi Guys, The coils and the panel on the back wall of the freezer is icing up.I manually defrosted it 2 times so far. Reading up here and I know it is the defrost cycle not operating. Could you please give me help to check the parts I need to check. No problem with a meter to check continuity. I think it has a defrost control Assembly(board) and not a timer. Any help would be great.

Thanks
Tim
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:41:19 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GR2SHKXKT00 TOP-MOUNT REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Yes, your unit does use an Adaptive Defrost Control board.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet. When the fans and compressor are off, you are in a defrost cycle.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 4 in Section 5) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 2 in Section 5 ) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board (Item 4 in Section 2) is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.


A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
GR2SH.pdf (323kb) downloaded 39 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
ftimbo  
#3 Posted : Thursday, June 23, 2011 7:54:35 AM(UTC)
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ftimbo

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Thanks denman, I will test tonight and post back on findings

Tim
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