[tballard]

I have a KitchenAid Superba KSFS25FJBL01 that was manufactured 03/01. There is an ice and water dispenser built into the front of the freezer door. On the panel for that dispenser, there is also a light on/off switch and a lock/unlock switch. None of the functions on this panel are working. The ice maker is actually making ice, but I can't get ice or water out of the door dispenser. Also, the light will not turn on. Is there a fuse that runs these functions? I can't find it. Thanks in Advance for your help.

[TechnicianBrian]

Look at the wire harness at the bottom of the freezer door near the hinge for a broken wire or two. You will need to cut away the covering for the bundle to get to the individual wires for a visual inspection.

[tballard]

It took me a while to get around to looking at that. You were right on the money about the failure. 4 of the 6 wires are broken. It looks like a real pain to repair the wires; I'd like to just replace the harness if possible. However, where the wires enter the bottom of the freezer door, there is a white "plug" that's kinda like a grommet. I'm scared to pull this free because I'm the guy that always breaks stuff.... Does this pull free? Can I replace the harness, or do I have to repair the wire? Any other suggestions? THANKS A MILLION for the help.

[TechnicianBrian]

The harness is part of the door and cannot be replaced unless you replace the entire door. I would try calling Kitchenaid and gently do some complaining and they may offer up some remittance for your trouble. I have personally knows one customer that had 3 doors replaced in 6 years so this isn't an entirely uncommon problem. If they don't help and you do repair the wires, don't use crimp connectors as the connections will only last a short time, then break again. Join the wire ends together using solder and cover them with heat shrink tubing. This will offer the best chance for a more permanent repair.

[denman]

TechnicianBrian

Would he be better off splicing in 6 inches or so of new wire and pushing one splice point up into the door and the other under the fridge. That way the door should not flex the wires too much at the splice point.
I have done this and have had good success.

Also am not sure that the wires can be pushed up into the door on this model.

Just an idea.

[TechnicianBrian]

Hey Den man,

It might be helpful, but it really depends on where the breaks occurred. I have had much success with soldering the wires, but I have also had allot of practice doing it. I have also found plenty of people (techs too) that try and use connectors and that never seems to work. The big thing is to get rid of the clips that are preventing the harness from flexing. If you order a new door for the unit, it will come with instructions to remove the clip and install a zip tie to the hinge loose enough to allow it to flex. Never really liked that idea, but that is what the engineer came up with. I find that if the repair is made, and the entire harness is taped up, it will push in behind the grill instead of flexing more like the harnesses on the built-ins. I don't think the wires could go up inside the door either unless some digging was done to the foam inside the door. But now that you mention it, I wonder if it could be done. Haven't seen one in awhile, but willing to give it a try next time I do.

[tballard]

very helpfull guys. thanks. I've only got about 2 inches of "tail" where it comes out of the door. I'm pretty good with a solder gun, so I'm going to give it a try. I don't really want to dig out the foam, so we'll see how this goes... thanks again

[TechnicianBrian]

Glad we could help.