[tarikkabbaj]

Hello,
My freezer is working but my refregirator gets warm. I tried to locate the defrost timer to test it but I could not find it. please advise! thanks,
Tarik

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GS5SHAXNB00 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

You do not have a defrost timer, defrost is controlled by the main control board (Item 18 in Section 11).

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet when the fans and compressor turn off you are in defrost.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 33 in Section 11) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK. It seems it is missing from the parts breakdown but there will be one clipped to the evaporator coils.

If both the above are OK then odds are the control board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[tarikkabbaj]

Thank you Denman, I will need to replace the electric board. Is it easy to change?and what is the process? thanks again for you advise
Tarik,

[denman]

Is it easy to change?and what is the process?

Should not be that difficult though I have never done one.
Just be sure to unplug the unit.
Also touch a ground before handling the board to get rid of any static electricity your body may be holding.
If you has copper plumbing pipes then one of them will do.