[Herb60]

Kenmore Side By Side freezing coils up and refigerator warming up ,
I defrosted coils and one week later it is warming again and looks like snow forming around icemaker exit to door. Any suggestions

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for 363.9565512 models | AppliancePartsPros.com

The defrost timer is on the first page, click on the picture to get more views and you will see the cam adjust on the back side.

The timer is in the control area in the fresh food side.
If you go to the Sear's site they have a parts breakdown.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam till the fans and compressor turn off, now you are in defrost.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Unplug the heating element and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
On this unit the heating element/s and the defrost thermostat may be one unit, see end of this post.
If you think it may be just the defrost thermostat you would need to cut the wires to the thermostat to measure it.
The thermostat is replaceable as separate item but has to be wired in using wire nuts or crimp connectors.
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

Your defrost heaters are the glass type so often you can see whetre the burned out.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Part number: AP2071465

[Herb60]

Thank You denman I found that one heator was bad and change it yesterday and so far so good. Thanks again
Herb60

[denman]

You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.