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Frigidaire Top Mount stopped

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Problem started last summer. Fridge stopped cooling and the part/area between the fridge section (lower) and the freezer got really

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Old 05-18-2011, 06:56 AM
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Default Frigidaire Top Mount stopped
Model Number: FRT21P5AW6   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Problem started last summer. Fridge stopped cooling and the part/area between the fridge section (lower) and the freezer got really hot to the touch. Wife wanted a new one anyway to match the colors in the ktichen. I kept the old one hoping to fix it as a spare.

Finally got around to trying to repair this week. It was suggested that I first check the back to make sure the fan was running. I saw that one of the blades was bent and was blocked from turning. I straightened it and cleaned the coils while I was back there. Plugged it in and it started running fine. Froze a cup of water in about 90 minutes. By the time I went to bed, the fridge section was down to about 45 degs after some adjustment to the damper.

Then I woke this morning. Unit was completely off. Opened the door and the light would not even come on. Investigation showed that the GFCI circuit was tripped. I reset it and the light came on. About 10 seconds later, a buzzing came from the back of the unit and then the circuit tripped again. Resetting made the light come on but nothing else. No fan, no buzzing, nothing at all from the unit.

Any ideas?

I'm thinking this is not good at all.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2011, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampworks View Post
Problem started last summer. Fridge stopped cooling and the part/area between the fridge section (lower) and the freezer got really hot to the touch. Wife wanted a new one anyway to match the colors in the ktichen. I kept the old one hoping to fix it as a spare.

Finally got around to trying to repair this week. It was suggested that I first check the back to make sure the fan was running. I saw that one of the blades was bent and was blocked from turning. I straightened it and cleaned the coils while I was back there. Plugged it in and it started running fine. Froze a cup of water in about 90 minutes. By the time I went to bed, the fridge section was down to about 45 degs after some adjustment to the damper.

Then I woke this morning. Unit was completely off. Opened the door and the light would not even come on. Investigation showed that the GFCI circuit was tripped. I reset it and the light came on. About 10 seconds later, a buzzing came from the back of the unit and then the circuit tripped again. Resetting made the light come on but nothing else. No fan, no buzzing, nothing at all from the unit.

Any ideas?

I'm thinking this is not good at all.
Swamp,

You're probably correct, not good at all.

Based on your post, I'm guessing two things,
Bad start device(overload/relay assembly).
Bad compressor motor windings.

Most likely due to the condenser fan not running and cooling the compressor and other components.

If you have a multimeter, you can test the compressor motor winding circuits,to determine of you need a start relay kit or compressor, you're also going to need to consider a condenser fan motor, as well.

The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.
Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay, overload protector and the [COLOR=#595959 !important][COLOR=#595959 !important]electrical[/color][/color] terminals of the compressor motor.
Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.
Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Test the [COLOR=#595959 !important][COLOR=#595959 !important]compressor[/color][/color] motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms.
Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service.
Now test the compressor for ground. With the multitester still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn.
None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.

Good Luck,
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-18-2011, 06:25 PM
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Alright! Looking at a troubleshooting site, one step was testing the defrost timer. I removed the cover to reveal it and noticed specs about a capacitor so I wasn't real enthusiastic about probing with the tester. On a whim, decided to "turn" the gear slightly and it clicked. Now I plug it in and the fridge runs. Does it make sense that the timer being bad could cause the unit to stop? This could be a pretty cheap fix if so.
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Old 05-19-2011, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swampworks View Post
Alright! Looking at a troubleshooting site, one step was testing the defrost timer. I removed the cover to reveal it and noticed specs about a capacitor so I wasn't real enthusiastic about probing with the tester. On a whim, decided to "turn" the gear slightly and it clicked. Now I plug it in and the fridge runs. Does it make sense that the timer being bad could cause the unit to stop? This could be a pretty cheap fix if so.

Swamp,

It could be, I would guess, you may have a bad contact in the compressor run circuit of the timer and may be supplying low voltage( less than 110 VAC) to the compressor, causing the "buzzing" noise.

That's why I wanted you to check the voltage on the wire, to the overload on, the compressor, when the motor was trying to start and was buzzing.

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