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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair

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Really could use some help girls/gals. I have a KitchenAid Superba KSCS25FKSS00 fridge and here is the problem. The freezer

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Old 01-30-2009, 03:31 PM
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Model Number: KSCS25FKSS00   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Really could use some help girls/gals.
I have a KitchenAid Superba KSCS25FKSS00 fridge and here is the problem. The freezer is cool (the coil is cold) however the evaporator fan does not seem to go on. The fridge is warm (I take it because the evap fan is not working). This is what I've done. I ran through the wiring diagram's test sequence using the control panel and according to the diagram. It showed that the evaporator fan is defective as well as the VC compressor. I've checked the voltage on the Evaporator fan WH and YL and there is no voltage. BU and RD shows 16volts.

Could this mean that the Control board is defective? How can I determine what the problem is?

Any help REALLY appreciated, wifes on me to get it working. Food going bad!!


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Last edited by kidjake28 : 01-30-2009 at 04:00 PM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2009, 05:53 PM
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Okay this is what I have so far.

I'll plug in the fridge. The condensor fans starts running. A second later the compressor starts. The coils will frost up after about 5 minutes. The evaporator fan does not run at all. Even after two hours the compressor keeps running the evaporator fan does not start.

I've measured the fridge/freezer thermistors and they are 3k/3.2k respectively. The bi/metal switch seems to work(closed when cold/open when warm). I measured the YL/RD YL/BK to the evaporator fan and it was 0volts.

How can I test the evaporator fan and is it likely that the control board is defective IF everything else is working fine?

Last edited by kidjake28 : 01-31-2009 at 05:38 AM.
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Old 01-31-2009, 10:03 AM
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Evap fan should run on 120 VAC. Disconnect (and remove, if practical). Hook up a test cord. If the fan runs, the problem is probably in the control board. If not, replace it.
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Old 01-31-2009, 11:00 AM
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Here are your parts
Model KSCS25FKSS00

Here is the tech sheet I am referring to, it may be different than yours.
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%202214447.pdf

I think you should be measuring the evap motor fro Yellow (yellow/black wire) to the White (white/violet wire). I think the other two wires are for speed feedback with the red having 12 volts.

Am not sure about the 120 VAC though as the motor has a Low Voltage DC designation on the above tech sheet.

Your thermistors look like they fall within the spec.

Here is a service manual and although it does not specifically show your unit it does have many of the system which are similar to yours
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...2?OpenDocument
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Last edited by denman : 01-31-2009 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 01-31-2009, 01:24 PM
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Hooey! If my advice were followed, you would have let the smoke out of the fan. You can't put the smoke back in, once it's released! I guess this old Maytag man better start consulting the schematics more often. Thanks, Denman
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Old 02-02-2009, 09:15 AM
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Thanks very much Den,

I did test the board voltage to the FAN motor it is indeed working. The problem seems to be the fan.

How highly recommended is it to replace the board as well. I've read some places that you should replace both but I really don't feel like spending $300 on a new board?

Magic, it's a 12 VDC motor and I don't SMOKE
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:14 PM
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If the voltage is OK
I would just replace the fan
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Old 02-02-2009, 09:18 PM
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Okay I'm an idiot. I bought a replacement fan (the fan was replaced with a replacement part number which was wired wrong, had to change the pins to match the original fan). It didn't work. The evap fan was still not working.

I made a mistake when I measured the voltages out of the evap connector. I did NOT get any voltage coming out of YL/BK to WH/V. I did get 22 volts coming out of YL/RD to WH/V. Thinking that's all I need.

So I followed it back to the control board connector. From there I followed the trace on the underside of the board. The trace led me to a surface mount fuse feeding I believe is a triac or voltage regulator (it was a house component - no numbers). In any case this fuse was blown. So I soldered a 1 ohm resistor on top of the fuse (just in case) just to prove my theory and voila the fan worked. I now have to find the value of the fuse (it's just marked with a FF). I'm thinking a 1-3amp fuse? I don't have schematics for this so I'm just guessing seeing that the fan is 3 watts.

Let me know if I'm an idiot for fooling around with the control board or whether I should get a new one. It's just that it so darn expensive for just a blown fuse and I'm hoping this post will help someone else who runs into this exact problem.

In any case thanks Den/Magic for your help.

Last edited by kidjake28 : 02-02-2009 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 02-03-2009, 04:17 AM
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"Let me know if I'm an idiot for fooling around with the control board or whether I should get a new one."

Not an idiot in my opinion!!!
Used to be the norm to troubleshoot to component level.
As far as I can see what is the worst that can happen, you could blow the board and you would have to buy a new one.
Also a shorted motor winding would knock out the fuse so it is a definite possibility that there is nothing wrong with the board.

3 watts at 12 volts would be 0.25 amps.
So I would go with a 1 amp fuse.
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:56 AM
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Thanks Denman,

I just thought some flamer would harp in and jump all over me for playing with the board and that it could cause the fridge to blow up or something like that.

I used to troubleshoot computers (C64's, PC's) down to component level so I know what your talking about. Those days are done.

My thinking was the same as yours, if the board blows up I would have to replace it anyways.

I'll go and look for a 1 amp fuse. Thanks again for all your help.
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