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I was directed to a thread from the Q&A on part number AP3601983 to a thread here about checking the condenser ohm ratings before ordering overloads and/or relays. It was for a different whirlpool model than mine though.
"The run winding will read 1-5 ohms resistance. Then stay on the single pin and go to the other pin. The start winding will read 3-11 ohms resistance. "
are these values applicable to my refrigerator or are they different? Thank you
Ken
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Yours looks the same. Be sure to also check to the case of the compressor. Here is a good link on how to check things. http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.phpAlso be aware that this is not a definitive test re: it could measure good but still have a problem re: mechanical etc. But if it fails then you know the compressor is toast. Here is the tech sheet for this unit, see the attachment |
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I dont understand, the service sheet says there is supposed to be 1-5 and 3-11 Ohms as applicable, but the website you linked to says its supposed to be zero ohms... which is it?
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There should be some resistance not 0 ohms. I think they are just checking for continuity using a meter and/or a scale that cannot register/resolve low ohm readings. |
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Almost all the time, compressor manufacturers use more start winding turns and finer gauge wire as compared to the run winding to get high starting torque and properly saturate the iron core. Therefore the start winding will always have higher resistance than the run winding. It is important to identify which is the run and start windings,as sometimes they are not in the "standard" configuration, common on top, start on bottom left. I always measure the run and start windings, then verify the common pin by measuring across start and run pins, must be the sum of start and run windings.
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