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Robg04  
#1 Posted : Sunday, May 1, 2011 2:18:19 AM(UTC)
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Robg04

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I purchased used, had to clean up and replace the plug (ground prong had broken off)..... It's been running for several days, and will not cycle off. Temps in freezer and fridge appear to be good (though I have not measured). Door seals appear to be ok, and light does turn off when closed. There is no visible frost in the freezer, but I haven't pulled the freezer panel off. Where are the refrig coils in this model? There is a panel on the back of this refrig, thinking coils are behind the panel. I turned the refrig and freezer settings to high setting (warmest possible) to see if this would cycle it off, still nothing. I am thinking it's a bad thermostat, but not sure. If I need to measure temps, where can I get a thermometer for this purpose? Should I try cleaning the coils and/or getting a better door seal before I replace parts? If you could direct me to a p/n for thermostat, if that is a potential part that needs replacing....
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, May 1, 2011 4:03:22 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here is a parts breakdown includes a wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...df/Webster/131850400.pdf

Yes I would measure the freezer temperature. It is the one that counts.
It should be between 0 and 5 degrees F.
Just about any thermometer will do as long as the temperature range is from about 10 below to 50 degrees F.

If the unit is below the above temperatures then it may well be that it is the thermostat.

Check that the evaporator fan in the freezer is running. It is required to pull air through the evaporator coils to cool it efficiently.

Check that the condenser/compressor fan is running and that the condenser coils are clean.

If the temperatures are in the range then remove the evaporator cover so you can check the coils.
If they only have frost in one area, usually where the freon enters the coils then you may have a low freon problem.

If they are heavily iced/frosted over you may have a defrost problem.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Robg04  
#3 Posted : Monday, May 2, 2011 7:02:52 PM(UTC)
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Robg04

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I pulled the thermostat out today and brought it home, stuck it inside freezer at home and ran continuity check. It checked out fine, pulled it out and after about 4-5 minutes, heard switch click to break contact, and infinite resistance..... So, from what I can tell the thermostat is working. I got a thermometer, will turn everything back on and put that in the freezer and see what temp it gets down to. What setting (middle maybe) should I test to see if temp gets to 0-5 F range? There is nothing in the freezer, a 1 gallon container of water in the refrigerator..... I'll also check the evap fan and coils.... I do know compressor fan runs. Thanks for the help!!!
denman  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, May 3, 2011 3:43:29 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="DarkRed"]What setting (middle maybe) should I test to see if temp gets to 0-5 F range?[/COLOR]
Yes that is where I would set it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Robg04  
#5 Posted : Sunday, May 8, 2011 5:23:55 PM(UTC)
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Robg04

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So I finally got a chance to work on this some more... I noticed the evaporator fan was not running, so I gave the fan a nudge and got it going, appears as if it was stuck. Ran for a couple hours today with no problems. Prior to getting the fan going I ran the unit for a day and measured the freezer temp and it was just below 0 F. So even with the evap fan not running, it got the freezer to 0 F. Refrig. compartment was probably not as cold as it should be since fan was inoperative. I did notice some light frost on the top evaporator coils, and light frost on the tubing to the evap coils, nothing significant, but a light coating of frost. If the thermostat was working properly, shouldn't it have cycled everything off since the freezer got that cold? Before I order a new thermostat, what are the chances that's actually the problem? Like I said in an earlier post I did measure resistance across thermostat leads, and it was opening and closing, but I'm thinking it could still be defective and maybe not opening/closing in the correct temp ranges.... Any suggestions would be appreciated. I don't want to spend a lot of time or $ on this since it is for a rental property that's currently vacant. If parts are more than about $75 I think I'll just buy a new refrigerator. I was thinking about just ordering a new thermostat and trying that, if that doesn't resolve, then I'll just buy a new refrig. Do you know how old Magic chef model CTB1521ARW is?
denman  
#6 Posted : Monday, May 9, 2011 2:39:47 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Do you know how old Magic chef model CTB1521ARW is?
No.

I would replace the fan before anything else.

With it not running properly the unit is very inefficient and will cause the compressor to run too long.
Also without proper air circulation the unit can do all sorts of strange things.

The patchy frost pattern would be a could be a concern but the unit is getting down to around 0 so I am guessing it is OK.
Also since it is not being used there will be little frost as no warm moist air is being introduced (the doors are not being opened often).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Robg04  
#7 Posted : Monday, May 9, 2011 11:40:48 AM(UTC)
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I stopped over the house today and the refrigerator is now cycling on and off. The evap fan appears to have been the problem. I'll keep an eye on it for another week and if all appears good I'll consider resolved. I'm wondering if I really need to replace the evap fan motor or if it was just stuck..... Refrig was in storage for awhile..... This website is great, a tremendous help!!!
denman  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, May 10, 2011 1:29:53 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Not replacing it is a gamble.

You could use the main thermostat to turn the unit on/off and watch the fan.
Ff it hesitates at all when starting, I would replace it.
If it starts good, it is still a gamble but your odds are much better that it is OK.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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