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Bottom freezer collecting frost on stored items. Noise is click, buzz, relay click off. Suspect timer or heat coil? Know

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Old 04-28-2011, 10:30 AM
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Default Amana bottom freezer buzzing/clicking, no defrost
Model Number: arb2217CSL   Brand: Amana   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Bottom freezer collecting frost on stored items.

Noise is click, buzz, relay click off.

Suspect timer or heat coil? Know that timer is above refrigerator section behind light assembly, where is heat coil?

Test procedures?

Thank you most kindly for any advice

Brian


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Old 04-28-2011, 11:21 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgjohnstonpm View Post
Bottom freezer collecting frost on stored items.

Noise is click, buzz, relay click off.

Suspect timer or heat coil? Know that timer is above refrigerator section behind light assembly, where is heat coil?

Test procedures?

Thank you most kindly for any advice

Brian
Brian,
That sounds more like a compressor relay or bad compressor.
Defrost systems don't usually make clicking or buzzing noises,

To access the heater and terminator, you'll need to remove everything inside the freezer, including the door and drawer rails on the walls, remove the screws holding the metal back wall to the cabinet, pull the panel out slowly and disconnect the wires from the fan motor, then remove the panel. you'll have access to the evaporator, defrost heater, and thermostat.

You should move the unit out and isolate the noise, that way we know where to go from there.

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Old 04-28-2011, 11:57 AM
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Default reply to Joe

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Brian,
That sounds more like a compressor relay or bad compressor.
Defrost systems don't usually make clicking or buzzing noises,

To access the heater and terminator, you'll need to remove everything inside the freezer, including the door and drawer rails on the walls, remove the screws holding the metal back wall to the cabinet, pull the panel out slowly and disconnect the wires from the fan motor, then remove the panel. you'll have access to the evaporator, defrost heater, and thermostat.

You should move the unit out and isolate the noise, that way we know where to go from there.


Joe,

Have back off refrig, and back panel out of freezer compartment.

Heat coil is 30.2 ohms, thermostat tests open when warm.

Buzz is definitely compressor. Cycles about every 2 1/2 minutes, and cycles on for about 10 seconds of buzzing, then clicks off.

????
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgjohnstonpm View Post
Joe,

Have back off refrig, and back panel out of freezer compartment.

Heat coil is 30.2 ohms, thermostat tests open when warm.

Buzz is definitely compressor. Cycles about every 2 1/2 minutes, and cycles on for about 10 seconds of buzzing, then clicks off.

????
BG,

OK, so the heater and the thermostat check OK,

Here's an easy way to test the compressor windings to determine if your compressor is bad or if you will need a start relay/overload assembly.

Once you remove the cover off the side of the compressor, carefully remove the overload relay assembly.

Part number: AP4013414

Part number: AP4013414



Test the compressor motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
Place one [COLOR=#595959 !important][COLOR=#595959 !important]probe[/color][/color] on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms.

Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service.

Now test the compressor for ground. With the multitester still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn.
None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.

If all checks are proper, you'll need the relay assembly.

Good Luck,
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