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Defrost Heater Won't Shut Off

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Problem started with ice building up on rear of Freezer wall and not defrosting. Replaced the Main Control Board. After

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Old 04-12-2011, 07:04 PM
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Default Defrost Heater Won't Shut Off
Model Number: ESS25XGMDWW   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Problem started with ice building up on rear of Freezer wall and not defrosting. Replaced the Main Control Board. After about 5 days the temperatures began to stabilize and all seemed OK. The today the defrost cycle would not turn off and the temperature in the Fresh Food Side Became very warm like a oven. All food ruined. The Freezer temperature was starting to rise also.

What would cause this problem?
What should I replace?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2011, 03:05 AM
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I would pull the schematic out from behind the encoder panel and check all the thermistor resistances including the evaporator, check between J1 pin 5 and each thermistor J1 pin 1 through pin J1 pin 4 at the motherboard. should be around 5Kohm at room temps.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
I would pull the schematic out from behind the encoder panel and check all the thermistor resistances including the evaporator, check between J1 pin 5 and each thermistor J1 pin 1 through pin J1 pin 4 at the motherboard. should be around 5Kohm at room temps.
Ok sorry but where is the encoder panel. I haven't noticed any schematics on the side by side GE Eterna. Are J1 and pin5 and J1 and pins 1-4 marked on the main control board ?
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Old 04-13-2011, 02:20 PM
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Behind the long control panel you will find the schematic, just take the screws out.
Seems like you have a shorted defrost thermostat and an open evaporator thermistor, not a good combination. The open thermistor will keep defrost going and the shorted thermostat will make the defrost heater really heat up the freezer. You are lucky the heater is only 600 watts!!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 05:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
Behind the long control panel you will find the schematic, just take the screws out.
Seems like you have a shorted defrost thermostat and an open evaporator thermistor, not a good combination. The open thermistor will keep defrost going and the shorted thermostat will make the defrost heater really heat up the freezer. You are lucky the heater is only 600 watts!!!

Replaced the defrost thermostat and waiting on delivery of the thermistors so I can replace them.

Is there a wire polarity I need to be concerned with when the wires to the new thermistors?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:08 AM
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No wire polarity at all!!
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
I would pull the schematic out from behind the encoder panel and check all the thermistor resistances including the evaporator, check between J1 pin 5 and each thermistor J1 pin 1 through pin J1 pin 4 at the motherboard. should be around 5Kohm at room temps.

Also I found that the light switch activated by closing the fresh food side door is open, this leaves two light bulbs burning when the door is closed. I have disconnected the wire harnes for these two light bulbs until I can get a new switch.

The two temperatures sensors arrived today and I replaced the one attached to the evaporator coil and the one in the fresh food side located near the cool air inflow duct they sure don't provide much wire length to work with in the fresh food area to splicein the new sensor.

Is the same thermister temperature sensor used for the freezer and freshfood section? I received two WR55X10025 temperature sensors.

The temperature has come down in the fresh food area to 57 deg F and is not continuing to move down. The freezer section is still not coming down below about 50 deg F.
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Old 04-16-2011, 01:38 AM
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Yes, they are all the same part #
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Old 04-17-2011, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richappy View Post
Yes, they are all the same part #
GE Eterna ESS25XGMDWW Side by Side

Replaced the defrost thermostat, temperature sensor in both freezer and freshfood area. Original sensor in fresh food read 3800 ohm and freezer sensor read 4450 ohm. New sensor both read about 5050 ohms.
Also replaced light switch for fresh food side that failed to turn offf the two bulbs.

Fresh food side finally reached 40 degree and freezer at 28 deg F in room with a temperature of 76 degrees. It has taken about 39 hours to reach these temps. Has just started to make ice.

My concern is that it has taken so long to come down in temp from room temp.

The defrost heater was on long enough to bake the fresh food side enough so that surfaces were quite hot to the touch and the white trim edge on one of the glass shelves had turned gray.

What would happen to the freon when heated to a high gas temp before going through the compressor?

To clean the back side of the condensor coil seems to require removing the fan which would allow the inside of the condensor coil tube to be cleaned. Is removing the machine screw holding the fan bracket the proper method to follow? I can see dust on the inside heat sink surfaces of the condensor coil which can only be reached if the fan is removed.

Thanks for the great help. Are there any more items that I need to check?
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Old 04-17-2011, 03:47 PM
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Your fridg got pretty hot, takes some time to chill down. You can try a shop vac on the condenser coils. Post back if freezer will not go below 10 degrees.
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