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The ice dispenser on my freezer door doesn't dispense any ice. The ice is being made just fine, and the

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Old 03-07-2011, 06:51 PM
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Default Ice dispenser not dispensing
Model Number: JSD2695KES   Brand: Jenn-Air   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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The ice dispenser on my freezer door doesn't dispense any ice. The ice is being made just fine, and the water unit is working properly. What can I look at to fix the problem without having to call a repair person?

Thank you


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2011, 02:59 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rjthueringer View Post
The ice dispenser on my freezer door doesn't dispense any ice. The ice is being made just fine, and the water unit is working properly. What can I look at to fix the problem without having to call a repair person?

Thank you
RJ,

You should be able to do any needed repair to this dispenser,without a servicer.

But,

We need some help from you, first, to help pinpoint the possible problems.

When you select "cubed " ice,

Can you hear the shifter solenoid engage(pop noise) does the flapper solenoid engage and the flapper door open, and can you hear or see the dispenser motor run ?

You can, remove the ice bin, tape the door light switch down/closed and do these checks with the freezer door open(it's easier this way).

We look forward to your response, so we can get you up and running.

Thanks,
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2011, 09:31 AM
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Default Ice dispenser not dispensing ice

When I push the button on the door panel neither the crushed or cubed ice light up, I can't check to see if the motor is trying to run or not. The only button that will light up is the water, which works fine.

Hope this makes sense.
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:49 AM
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Default Ice or Water Dispenser or both not working

If the problem was intermittent before complete failure that generally indicates something other than the control board. All my searching said to replace the main control board, I did and the problem remained, so before you do check the wiring. The problem is probably at the connector near the freezer hinge behind the vented kick-plate. The kick-plate is held in place by two very stiff clips about 1/4 of the way in from the ends. You will need to be aggessive to remove it but I suggest starting at one end and pulling out HARD. Be carefull to not let the plastic cut your hands though. Once you get that done and find the connector check the wiring at the connector. On mine there was evidence of corrosion but the problem obvious since the power wire connector pin was broken and pulled out of the connector. Go to Home Depot (Lowes doesn't carry what you need) or Radio Shack and get some 22-18 wire size male and female crimp connectors. Make sure to get some that will be complete shrouded once connected. Cut all of the wires from both sides of the existing connector making note of the wire colors and where they go. By the way, GE isn't real good about following through on their color codes. On my unit, it is black to black, blue to blue and red to white. I recommed using the female connectors on the wires coming from under the refrigerator since at least one is the "hot" wire and it will remove the possibility of it shorting should it be unplugged. Just as a note, if you have the knowledge necessary to use and Volt-Ohmmeter you can check the voltage at the connections behind the dispenser control board. When I checked the voltage was reading @12V but I noticed that if I put my fingers on the leads while checking, then the voltage dropped to about 8V. That was the clue that there was a bad connection somewhere that was limiting the current flow.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:21 AM
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Default Still not working

I pulled the kickplate off the bottom of the frig. but didn't see any wiring under there. It looks like all the wiring is in the freezer compartment behind the ice maker itself. Am I looking in the wrong place?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dincon View Post
If the problem was intermittent before complete failure that generally indicates something other than the control board. All my searching said to replace the main control board, I did and the problem remained, so before you do check the wiring. The problem is probably at the connector near the freezer hinge behind the vented kick-plate. The kick-plate is held in place by two very stiff clips about 1/4 of the way in from the ends. You will need to be aggessive to remove it but I suggest starting at one end and pulling out HARD. Be carefull to not let the plastic cut your hands though. Once you get that done and find the connector check the wiring at the connector. On mine there was evidence of corrosion but the problem obvious since the power wire connector pin was broken and pulled out of the connector. Go to Home Depot (Lowes doesn't carry what you need) or Radio Shack and get some 22-18 wire size male and female crimp connectors. Make sure to get some that will be complete shrouded once connected. Cut all of the wires from both sides of the existing connector making note of the wire colors and where they go. By the way, GE isn't real good about following through on their color codes. On my unit, it is black to black, blue to blue and red to white. I recommed using the female connectors on the wires coming from under the refrigerator since at least one is the "hot" wire and it will remove the possibility of it shorting should it be unplugged. Just as a note, if you have the knowledge necessary to use and Volt-Ohmmeter you can check the voltage at the connections behind the dispenser control board. When I checked the voltage was reading @12V but I noticed that if I put my fingers on the leads while checking, then the voltage dropped to about 8V. That was the clue that there was a bad connection somewhere that was limiting the current flow.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:22 AM
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I pulled the kick plate off the bottom of the frig, but didn't see any wiring. It looks to me that all the wiring is in the freezer unit itself. Am I looking in the wrong place?
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Old 03-21-2011, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjthueringer View Post
I pulled the kick plate off the bottom of the frig, but didn't see any wiring. It looks to me that all the wiring is in the freezer unit itself. Am I looking in the wrong place?
RJ,

First off, the wiring harness for the dispenser, is in the the top hinge cover of the freezer door hinge. The water tube to the dispenser is inserted through the bottom hinge of the freezer door.

So, remove the hinge cover, and check the wires and connectors, for loose connections, check the inside of the plastic connectors for discoloration and arc marks.

If all is correct at the hinge/cabinet harness, you'll need to remove the dispenser facade(face plate) and check for loose connections and possibly damaged board and /or keypad assembly.

Dispenser Facade (some models)
1. Remove drip tray by pulling it straight out from door.
2. Remove two hex screws at the bottom of facade that
were hidden by drip tray.
3. Push down on facade to release retainer clips.
4. Remove facade and disconnect ten pin connector from
control board.
5. Reverse procedure to reassemble.

Good Luck,
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Old 03-21-2011, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjthueringer View Post
I pulled the kick plate off the bottom of the frig, but didn't see any wiring. It looks to me that all the wiring is in the freezer unit itself. Am I looking in the wrong place?

I apologize RJ for misleading you on the wire location. As Joe has pointed out the wiring (on SOME units) is routed through at the top hinge. For my particular unit both come in at the bottome hinge. In either case, I hope the rest of my information (kind of long now that I look at it) will help you find and fix your problem.
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dincon View Post
I apologize RJ for misleading you on the wire location. As Joe has pointed out the wiring (on SOME units) is routed through at the top hinge. For my particular unit both come in at the bottome hinge. In either case, I hope the rest of my information (kind of long now that I look at it) will help you find and fix your problem.

Dincon,

Thanks for the update.

A lot of your information, will come in handy for RJ.

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