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Goldy5119 03-06-2011 10:15 AM

Freezer Fan Motor
Hello APP, this is my second purchase (different appliance) and I would like to verify my problem before I place an order. I have a Kitchen Aid (KSBP25FKSS00) side by side refrig. Seems my freezer fan (part # AP3182981) stopped circulating air and I want to be sure it is in fact a faulty fan, not some type of relay or circuit board issue.. Can I run a VDC test on the white, blue, yellow, red wire to verify proper voltage is being delivered? If so, what VDC am I looking for across which wires and when? Currently my readings are 11.85 VDC Yellow to Red and .385 VDC Blue to White, however there does not seem to be a change whether the "power on" button is pressed or not (plugged in but not calling for compressor).. Your help is greatly appreciated..


denman 03-07-2011 04:25 AM

Here are your parts

The fan (item 7 in Section 10) is a kit which suggetss to me that they have had problems in this area.
Hopefully someone else will know why it is a kit.

Here is a service manual
You will have to join the site but it is well worth it as it has loads of info for the appliance DIYer. Also it is free.

Looks like the white is the common so all measurements should be made with it being the reference.
See pages 3-3 and 5-2.

Goldy5119 03-07-2011 06:07 AM

Appliance Digest
Thank you for the quick reply, but for some reason I can't download the file you are referring to... I registered for ApplianceDigest, yet it says I can't upload or download files.. In fact the only way I can get to the extensive list of downloads is by using your hyperlink.. I can't access more than 2 or 3 payges of downloads, most of which are air conditioners? Are there any other options to seeing this manual?

Used the white as the common and yielded the same results with VDC...

Thanks for all the help!

denman 03-07-2011 07:08 AM

Perhaps this link will work

Goldy5119 03-07-2011 09:51 AM

Ran Diagnostic
Thank you for that PDF, that was very helpful.. I ran the diagnostic mode and found the EVAP fan is not working properly as previously identified.. Seems the WHITE and RED are a constant 12 VDC when power is on and I should be getting 5-17 VDC on the WHITE and YELLOW.. I did make sure the compressor was running the required 8 minutes (defrost override) and the condensor fan were running before determining the power supply was incorrect.. Problem is there are no directions when voltage is incorret at YELLOW & WHITE (is the main control board no good?).. What should I verify next?? Also it would seem to me that if WHITE & RED have 12 VDC and the fan isn't running, I have a fualty fan? It may be the result of a bigger issue, but I am stiffle very confused... Adivce on next steps would be much appreciated!! :)

Goldy5119 03-07-2011 01:38 PM

more research
I pulled the main control board from the unit and determined that I only have 12 VDC constant to the EVAP fan (P7 Outputs - Pin #'s 5 & 9)and I do not have 5-12 VDC for Fan Run Voltage (P7 Outputs - Pin #'s 9 &10).. I guess the question is why is the control board not delivering the 5-12 VDC signal to the fan? I ohm'ed out the fan and it is within spec and I also connected the fan to a 12 volt power supply and if I deliver power to both the Red and Yellow terminal on the fan I get the fan to spin... If I only go to the red and white (no yellow) I don't get the fan to spin.. Thinking the fan requires both the constant and variable voltage to operate correctly? Also verfied the termistors are within spec, both from a voltage and ohm's perspective.. Bi-metal switch was > 50 degrees at the time of testing and had an infinity reading on the ohm meter, so that question is answered too..

Does this mean I need a circuite board OR is there another switch or component controlling my fan speed/functionality?

Please Help! :(

denman 03-08-2011 02:29 AM

Thinking the fan requires both the constant and variable voltage to operate correctly?
That is correct.
The white to red is your constant 12 volts.
The white to yellow is your drive voltage.
You should also see a voltage on white to blue when the motor is running.
It may be AC. This is the feedback voltage. It tells the board what speed the motor is running at so that the board can regulate the speed.

Bi-metal switch was > 50 degrees at the time of testing and had an infinity reading on the ohm meter, so that question is answered too..
This may be a problem. I would say that the fan will not run with the bi-metal open. When it is open it is telling the board that the evaporator coils are warm so it should hold the fan off to prevent warm air from circulating into the freezer.
The wiring diagram shows test terminals wired in series with the bi-metal so that you can short across the bi-metal and trick the unit into thinking is is at set point temperatures.

Goldy5119 03-08-2011 09:43 AM

BiMetal Tested - Cold
I put the bimetal in a deep freeze for 2 hrs until I was sure it was no more than 0 degrees... Test for continuity, none... So the bimetal is not closing.. Problem solved, I thought.. Tried jumping the wires to close circuit manually but wasn't happy, or sure, I had a good connection so I cut the bimetal wires and pig tailed them to ensure I had a GOOD connection.. Even with a closed circuit on the bimetal I am failing the test on the diagnostic AND I am suppose to have 120 VAC at the defrost heater and I only have about 5.8 VAC?? I ohm'ed out the heater ring and it is @ 24 ohms, well within the spec..

I am LOST... Seems my bimetal was/is bad, but something else is wrong too? What would be causing the failure on the diagnostic test if I manually closed the bimetal circuit (failure is suppose to be open) and why do I only have 5.8 VAC at my heater when I should have 120 VAC?

denman 03-08-2011 11:14 AM

why do I only have 5.8 VAC at my heater when I should have 120 VAC?
This is probably just ghost voltage, one wire inducing a voltage into another wire.
I took a look at the control board and it looks like they use relays to control the AC so that is why I think it is ghost voltage, if the relay contacts were dropping 114.2 (120 - 5.8) across them I would expect them to burn up.

Is your compressor running now?
Did the evaporator fan start up?
Perhaps let it cool down with the bi-metal shorted and see what happens.

It could be that the freezer must be at or close to the freeze set point for a defrost cycle to start.

I am also getting LOST.

This is a royal pain as it is starting to look like the control board is shot and it comes up as Not Available.

Goldy5119 03-08-2011 11:30 AM

I have the refrig completely cleaned out and at room temp... I only turn it on long enough to do my diagnosis.. Agree with the ghost voltage diagnosis as it actually rises when I open the bimetal circuit manually by seperating the pig tails.. So for some unknown reason the board does not recognize I have closed the bimetal circuit which in turn is presumably not providing my fan speed control 5-17 VDC to set the fan speed from 2,000 - 3,000 RPM.. I need to figure out why that is.. Strange part is I did a continuity check on the Pink and Brown wire near the board and when I seperate the pig tail in the freezer there is no continuity, but when I tie them back together there is.. Seems the board isn't processing that information? Unless there is another factor at play here?

Note: I did wait the 8 minute timeframe for the "cool down" before the fan should operate.. Books says there is an 8 minute delay to avoid circulating warm air.

The Compressor and condesnor fan start up and the condensor gets ICE cold pretty quickly...

I thought I saw the board for about $200 on your site?? What would you suggest I verify next to nail this problem down?

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