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So I just had a professional come out and diagnose the issue. Except he technically didn't diagnose the problem. The

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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2013, 07:37 PM
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Default Kenmore 25378132892 wont get cold

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So I just had a professional come out and diagnose the issue. Except he technically didn't diagnose the problem. The guy was on the phone with his "boss" most of the time describing what he saw and answering all the questions his boss asked him over the phone. Not sure that counts as a free diagnosis, but hey, i'm not out any money. Anyways, he didn't seem to care too much about the apparent restriction in the line which causes ice to form on just the top right section of the evaporator and the rest of the evaporator to stay room temperature. Rather, he diagnosed it as a leak in the freon line, identified due to the green build-up on one of the copper pipes in the back (see picture). I was told this is not reparable (didnt say it could be repaired but wouldn't make sense for the cost), just that it was not reparable. I think I have exhausted my know how and my wife's patience and will just have to get a new fridge, but i wanted to post this update and allow you all to weigh in one more time if you wouldn't mind. Again, thanks for all the advice.

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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2013, 04:39 PM
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Default CF745W Beverage Air

Compressor will turn on, everything works, pumps cold air when you feel the air inside the doors, but the relay that stops the starter capacitor (spelling may not be correct) does not switch off the starter capacitor. Technician replaced old bad compressor (he said the original was bad, but now there's now way for me to know as this one is a rebuilt compressor), then this problem started. He's tried 4 different capacitors, 4 different relays, even one was a three-in-one (3W1 3 series capacitor) and it still burnt out smelling terrible. Originally thought it was the ground wire not being well grounded, fixed that, I also called another technician and he checked everything, ohms, etc., just said the compressor was bad. When you put a capacitor on it, the compressor turns on and pumps cold air, and after a very short time, it burns out, and no more cooling. This compressor was just rebuilt... any clue as to my problem? Like I said, the ohms check out, everything turns on, it even cools, but then when the capacitor burns out it starts to short cycle. The run capacitor is fine. Any clue? Thanks in advance!
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2013, 02:51 PM
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Default Beverage Air not cooling

So, I basically have the exact same problem as the original poster. I have a beverage air vending style refrigerator (the type with a glass front door and a lighted marquee up top)

It stopped cooling, and all fans are in working order. I have a multimeter and some knowledge of how to work it, but I am unsure of what wires I need to be shooting with it to determine if my compressor is bad. I see many people talking about overload relays and starter relays- but I am unsure where those are even located.

My compressors info is:
Tecumseh
AE630AR717A2
AEA4440YXA
R134a
F0102
724053
And Also a sticker on top with various information about who installed it and when and how much refrigerant they put inside it. It says beverage air model Mt27 compressor number 857 (it might be "8571"?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated- it sure would be great to find out my compressor still works!

(side note: my fins were pretty dirty- almost entirely caked up. I cleaned them about two years ago and haven't since... Oops. Hopefully this will cause the "overload relay" to pop as its name kind of implies?)
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Old 08-11-2013, 03:51 PM
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I am having the exact same problem as the thread starter, but replacing the start relay did not fix it for me. I have tested my compressor by doing the ohms check, the readings are, common to run = 3, common to start = 5, and start to run = 8. Those seem to fail in between what Jeff said is good, so I am thinking my compressor windings check out ok. I bough a hard start kit, an rbo810 which was the same one that was in the refrigerator already. I wired it the same way and plugged the fridge in, I hear the fans start immediately and the lights are on in the fridge, but I do not hear the compressor turn on at all. The relay clicks and that's about all the noise I hear besides the fans. I have tested for power to the compressor and there are no volts at the terminals on the side of the compressor. I have one lead in ground and I put the other lead into the pigtail that goes to the hard start kit and I have approx. 120 volts there, but when I put my lead onto the compressor terminals I do not receive any voltage. Anyone have any ideas on what I could possibly test next?
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff / APP Team View Post
Lets use a multi-meter to test the compressor. First unplug the refrigerator and remove the start relay off of the side of the compressor. Go to the single pin on the compressor and check to one of the pins that are side by side on the compressor. The run winding will read 1-5 ohms resistance. Then stay on the single pin and go to the other pin. The start winding will read 3-11 ohms resistance. If your readings are out of these ranges, then you have a bad compressor. If they are within these ranges, then you have a bad relay overload. Here is a link to the parts diagram. Hope this helps.

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I have readings of 3.2 on one and 4.4 on the other is this mean the compreser is ok?
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:07 PM
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Hi,

I had the same problem as the first poster in this thread. I did the resistance test on the compressor and it seemed to pass, if I did the test right. So from what you replied, my problem should be the relay overload. My question is, the relay isn't rattling and I have read it rattles when it goes. Is the rattle always the case? Or even if my relay doesn't rattle it could still be the problem?

my model number is: JBL2286KES

THANK YOU!! I just found this site and it is totally amazing!

Last edited by mike-e : 10-08-2013 at 11:12 PM.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 07:27 PM
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I have a Kenmore 596.65232402 that is not getting cold. There does not appear to be any ice build up. I pulled off the back panel and the compressor is hot.

I read your description Jeff and it is very helpful... except that I don't understand what you mean by single pin and what the run winding and start winding look like. I guess I just don't know which electrical contacts you are referring to to test. Any generic photos?

EDIT: I found the part and pulled it off. The compressor has 3 male end prongs and the relay thing has 3 female ends. When I tried to measure the ohms on the relay thing only one combination of the 3 holes gave any reading. When I measured the three prongs sticking out of the compressor all three registered the same reading. I think it was 0.09 or 0.9. I hate my multimeter it has a bunch of settings that move around the decibel point back and forth with either k or m but I think the setting I had it on was 200m? It was the only setting that was registering anything. So whatever it was measuring was consistent on all combinations of the prongs.

I hope that helps, does that sound like the relay or am I going to go refrigerator shopping? The part online is about $35 but locally it is about $70. I hate to spend that much more but it sure beats waiting 3 days for something to ship to Hawaii

Thanks for the help in advance!

Last edited by MattU : 02-21-2014 at 12:22 AM.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 02:36 AM
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One thing to note is that the compressor winding resistance test is not a definitive test. It will tell you if the compressor is bad but does not tell you that the compressor is good. It may have winding to winding shorts or mechanical problems.

Sounds like it is a meter reading problem re: you are on the wrong resistance scale.
If this is one of the auto-ranging type where you cannot select your resistance scale then I also would hate it.
K usually means kilohms *.000 so a reading of 1 is 1,000 ohms
M usually means megohms *. 000,000 so a reading of 1 is 1,000,000 ohms.
For instance my meter has the following scales.
200, 2K, 20K, 200K, 2000K and 20M ohms.
To measure the compressor coils I would use the 200 ohms.
This scale measures 0 to 200 ohms anything over 200 ohms shows as an open circuit / infinite ohms.
Lets say I try to use the 20M scale then the meter will show all windings as 0 ohms (dead short) because the meter does not have enough digits (resolution) to show the low resistances of the compressor coils.

The resistances should be just a few ohms.
Below is a good site on how to check the compressor coils.
How To Fix a Refrigerator - Appliance Repair Guide - ACME HOW TO.com

If your meter is a pain to use then perhaps just replace it.
You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.

There is a good post on meter use at the top of this forum section.
Below is my usual blurb on meter use.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
One thing to note is that the compressor winding resistance test is not a definitive test. It will tell you if the compressor is bad but does not tell you that the compressor is good. It may have winding to winding shorts or mechanical problems.
Thanks for the lesson on the multimeter. I think I want to buy one of those digital ones where it just has the 4 or 5 basic settings and it figures it out by itself. You mentioned you don't like the auto ones though?

I know that when I was measuring the setting I chose was at the end, but I don't know if it was 200ohms or 200m ohms. I can try again and maybe post a picture for reference? At least now I can set it to 200 ohms but I am still not sure what exactly I am looking for in terms of numbers. I know that the measurement was to the right most section of the ohms area on the dial going clockwise.

I am still trying to get a repairman though especially since you mention that it is not a sure indicator of what is broken.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:50 PM
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Default Samsung RS2555SL not cooling

Hi Jeff, refrigerator stopped cooling completely, is getting power ok. I just replaced the c-fan thinking that was the problem but luck. I hear fan inside the fridge, every few minutes I hear a clicking noise from the side of the compressor after that the compressor turns on for 8 seconds then turns off, after while the compressor got real hot, any any suggestions on what the problem is.
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