[shasbrooke]

So I just had a professional come out and diagnose the issue. Except he technically didn't diagnose the problem. The guy was on the phone with his "boss" most of the time describing what he saw and answering all the questions his boss asked him over the phone. Not sure that counts as a free diagnosis, but hey, i'm not out any money. Anyways, he didn't seem to care too much about the apparent restriction in the line which causes ice to form on just the top right section of the evaporator and the rest of the evaporator to stay room temperature. Rather, he diagnosed it as a leak in the freon line, identified due to the green build-up on one of the copper pipes in the back (see picture). I was told this is not reparable (didnt say it could be repaired but wouldn't make sense for the cost), just that it was not reparable. I think I have exhausted my know how and my wife's patience and will just have to get a new fridge, but i wanted to post this update and allow you all to weigh in one more time if you wouldn't mind. Again, thanks for all the advice.

[StormeKing]

Compressor will turn on, everything works, pumps cold air when you feel the air inside the doors, but the relay that stops the starter capacitor (spelling may not be correct) does not switch off the starter capacitor. Technician replaced old bad compressor (he said the original was bad, but now there's now way for me to know as this one is a rebuilt compressor), then this problem started. He's tried 4 different capacitors, 4 different relays, even one was a three-in-one (3W1 3 series capacitor) and it still burnt out smelling terrible. Originally thought it was the ground wire not being well grounded, fixed that, I also called another technician and he checked everything, ohms, etc., just said the compressor was bad. When you put a capacitor on it, the compressor turns on and pumps cold air, and after a very short time, it burns out, and no more cooling. This compressor was just rebuilt... any clue as to my problem? Like I said, the ohms check out, everything turns on, it even cools, but then when the capacitor burns out it starts to short cycle. The run capacitor is fine. Any clue? Thanks in advance!

[Jimsocks]

So, I basically have the exact same problem as the original poster. I have a beverage – air vending – style refrigerator (the type with a glass front door and a lighted marquee up top)

It stopped cooling, and all fans are in working order. I have a multimeter and some knowledge of how to work it, but I am unsure of what wires I need to be shooting with it to determine if my compressor is bad. I see many people talking about overload relays and starter relays- but I am unsure where those are even located.

My compressors info is:
Tecumseh
AE630AR717A2
AEA4440YXA
R134a
F0102
724053
And Also a sticker on top with various information about who installed it and when and how much refrigerant they put inside it. It says beverage air model Mt27 compressor number 857 (it might be "8571"?)

Any help would be greatly appreciated- it sure would be great to find out my compressor still works!

(side note: my fins were pretty dirty- almost entirely caked up. I cleaned them about two years ago and haven't since... Oops. Hopefully this will cause the "overload relay" to pop as its name kind of implies?)