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My overload relay on a Maytag MZD2766GEW was burned and disintegrated into pieces rattling around in the inside of the

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Old 03-11-2012, 12:51 PM
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Default Burned overload relay

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My overload relay on a Maytag MZD2766GEW was burned and disintegrated into pieces rattling around in the inside of the relay. Can a bad compressor cause this or is the compressor bad? Thanks in advance.

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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2012, 06:34 AM
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Hello. Usually, the compressor is not bad and the only thing that will need to be replaced is the relay/overload. They tend to break down, or can have a surge and burn up. If the relay is burnt and is rattling, you will need to replace the relay/overload. Hope this helps.
Part number: AP4009660

Part number: AP4009660
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:17 AM
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Thanks. Will order one today.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff / APP Team View Post
Hello. Glad we could help!! If you will provide your model number, I can help you find the correct part! Thank you.
I have a Cavalier Vending Machine that stopped cooling. My issue is the same as the Original Poster described (Not cooling, Fans running, Compressor hot).

I have possibly isolated my Problem to the Overload Relay but do not know where I could locate one for this Machine.

The Model number of the Vending Machine is: Cavalier C5-225-125.

Thanks in Advance.
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Old 07-25-2012, 04:46 PM
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Default amana abl192zfes refrigerator is not getting cold

Hi Jeff K! I just discovered this site, searching the web for answers. I have problems with my amana abl192zfes refrigerator. Yesterday we missed electricity and since then my refrigerator is not getting cold. This is the second time this happen, but last time it was the freezer. Same story we missed electricity. It was under waranty and the service guy came here and changed a fuse or something. It doesnt took over 5-10min to repair. This make me think it was the start relay, but im not sure. Now everything is working fine, the freezer is freezing, light, fan, everything seems to work, but the refrigerator is not getting cold. Could it be the start relay, considering that the freezer is still working? Also, how do you make sure that the start relay is the problem before you replace it? I've read a lot of story where ppl did replaced the start replay but doesnt actually solved their problem. I deffinately need your help. Thanks in advance!

Francis

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Old 07-26-2012, 05:37 AM
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Hello Wukillabee. No, if the freezer is working, it is not the relay or overload. You need to check and see if the fan inside the freezer is running. If not, you will need to test for power coming to the motor. If there is power there, replace the fan motor. If the fan is running, you need to check and see if the damper in the fresh food is opening. If not, you will need to replace the damper assembly. You can test this with a multi-meter [AP3873826]. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

Part number: AP4366692

Part number: AP4366692


Part number: AP4373610

Part number: AP4373610
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:30 AM
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Hi Jeff, thank you for the promp reply! Yes the fan in the freezer is working. As for the demper, im not sure. I can push it up a bit. Could it be the defrost? Cold air is not getting to the fresh food but the duct doesn't seem to be blocked. I removed the back wall in the freezer and saw a lot of frost there. I guess the warm air from the refrigerator is not getting down back to the freezer because the duct is blocked by all that ice/frost. Does it make any sense? Yesterday i removed the frost with a knife and i could feel a bit of fresh air coming to the fresh food. I though the problem was solved but this morning same story. Lot of frost and no cooling to the refrigerator. Any idea?

Last edited by wukillabee : 07-26-2012 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:34 AM
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Yes, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter [AP3873826]. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

Part number: AP4423519

Part number: AP4423519


Part number: AP4310486

Part number: AP4310486


Part number: AP4366538

Part number: AP4366538
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:04 AM
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Thanks for the lightning fast reply! Alright just a little update. I removed the backwall in the freezer again and cleaned/melted the frost using a heatgun. I can now feel cool air up in the refrigerator, just like yesterday. My fear is that the freezer get stuck with frost again and again... I will follow your recommandation. Can you help me identify the defrost heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer? I really don't know how they should look nor where they are located. Thanks!!
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:12 AM
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Below is 2 links. In one you will look at part number 10 and 14. These are the heater and the thermostat. In the 2nd link look at part number 5. This is the control board which is the timer.

Unit parts replacement parts for Maytag ABL192ZFES3 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com


Refrigerator liner parts replacement parts for Maytag ABL192ZFES3 REFRIGERATOR | AppliancePartsPros.com
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