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jrtech  
#1 Posted : Friday, February 25, 2011 6:26:30 AM(UTC)
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jrtech

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Evap fan not starting on its own. Replaced fan. Came on the first time fridge and freezer operated normal, now fan will not start on it own or cycle normally. Possible Main control board problem? Any thoughts....
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Friday, February 25, 2011 9:05:34 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jrtech Go to Quoted Post
Evap fan not starting on its own. Replaced fan. Came on the first time fridge and freezer operated normal, now fan will not start on it own or cycle normally. Possible Main control board problem? Any thoughts....


JR,

You're most likely correct, you probably will need the "mother board".

Part number: AP4436216
Part number: AP4436216


But check this connector and these voltages on the original board first, and the connectors/connections for any loose fits.

Which fan did you install ?

J2 pin 4 to pin 3 = 12.4 VDC
(high speed),8 VDC (low

speed)


Good Luck,
:) :) :)
jrtech  
#3 Posted : Friday, February 25, 2011 9:54:12 AM(UTC)
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jrtech

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I replaced the evap fan (inside freezer) because the old one rattled when it ran. I could get it to run by spin starting it. But it would not start back up on its own. After a couple of days I would notice the fresh food side in the fridge would be frozen, and food would be unthawed in the top of the freezer. No air circulation. I figured the fan motor was bad. When I replaced it, it seemed to be fine for only the first fan cycle, but then back to days of the compressor running and the evap fan not cycling. Maybee the board is not producing enough voltage to get the motor running on its own or timing feaatures are not working properly after the first cycle. I will check the voltage pin outs tonight. Thanks for the reply, just the technical information I was looking for...
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Friday, February 25, 2011 1:38:34 PM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jrtech Go to Quoted Post
I replaced the evap fan (inside freezer) because the old one rattled when it ran. I could get it to run by spin starting it. But it would not start back up on its own. After a couple of days I would notice the fresh food side in the fridge would be frozen, and food would be unthawed in the top of the freezer. No air circulation. I figured the fan motor was bad. When I replaced it, it seemed to be fine for only the first fan cycle, but then back to days of the compressor running and the evap fan not cycling. Maybee the board is not producing enough voltage to get the motor running on its own or timing feaatures are not working properly after the first cycle. I will check the voltage pin outs tonight. Thanks for the reply, just the technical information I was looking for...




JR,


OK, you're welcome,

let us know how things go,

:) :) :)
jrtech  
#5 Posted : Sunday, February 27, 2011 7:37:23 PM(UTC)
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jrtech

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Joe,

Evap fan not running again, freezer unthawing. 13.75 v dc at j2 pin 3 and 4. Can not get fan to run. Ran fine for a day, now will not start. Is there anthing else in the circuit that can keep the fan from not running? Door switch etc?
jrtech  
#6 Posted : Sunday, February 27, 2011 7:47:53 PM(UTC)
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jrtech

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Sorry, checked pins 3 and 4 from the top down. Was only at 2.3 volts. Fan not running. Left the meter on it for a while, voltage slowly crept up to 6v dc. Fan Came on and voltage continued to rise to 12.7. Seems to come on way too late. Sometimes the compressor will be on for an hour before evap fan voltage gets high enough to start fan. Really wierd. I wonder if i have a thermister out of range? Let me know what u think.
Joe / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Monday, February 28, 2011 12:55:51 PM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jrtech Go to Quoted Post
Sorry, checked pins 3 and 4 from the top down. Was only at 2.3 volts. Fan not running. Left the meter on it for a while, voltage slowly crept up to 6v dc. Fan Came on and voltage continued to rise to 12.7. Seems to come on way too late. Sometimes the compressor will be on for an hour before evap fan voltage gets high enough to start fan. Really wierd. I wonder if i have a thermister out of range? Let me know what u think.



JR,

It still looks like you've got a bad mother board,

But you may want to test your thermistor resistance to varify

all the thermistors have the same resistances,

0 to 5 degrees should register 36,000 ohms on your meter

Room temperature(77 degrees) should register 5,000 ohms on your meter.

I've attached an excerpt from the general manual for a better explanation.


The evaporator fan is the same fan used on previous
models; however, a signifi cant difference is that the
main control board neither requires nor receives
input from the fan feedback/rpm (blue) wire. The fan
utilizes a permanent magnet, 4-pole, DC motor that
operates at 3 different speeds: high, medium, and
low.
The speed of the fan is controlled by the voltage
output from the main control board (J2 pin 8 to J2
pin 3). Voltage output from the main control board
to the fan is 13.6 VDC; however, to regulate the
speed of the fan, the main control board uses pulse
width modulation.
When operating, voltage is sent in pulses (much like
a duty cycle) as opposed to an uninterrupted fl ow.
This pulsing of 13.6 VDC produces effective voltage
being received at the motor, which is equivalent to a

reduction in voltage.

Fan speed is selected and maintained by the main
control board regulating the length and frequency
of the 13.6-VDC pulse. Temperature can cause
some fan speed variation. Fan speed can vary
+/- 5%, depending on the temperature, with higher
temperatures causing slightly higher speeds.
The evaporator fan has a 4-wire connection:

White Wire - DC Common (J2 pin 3)
The white wire is the DC common wire used
for testing. During repairs, DC polarity must be
observed. Reversing the DC polarity causes a
shorted motor and/or board.

Red Wire - Supply (J2 pin 8)
Each motor uses an internal electronic controller to
operate the motor. Supply voltage from the main
control board remains at a constant 13.6 VDC.

Blue Wire - Feedback/RPM (J2 pin 1)
On previous Arctica models, the blue wire reported
rpm (speed) information to the main control board
for speed control purposes. On this model, the board
does not require or read any feedback information
from the fan motor.

Yellow Wire - Signal (J2 pin 4)
The yellow wire is the input wire from the main
control board. The main control board provides
6.5-VDC effective voltage for low speed, 8-VDC
effective voltage for medium speed, and 9.5-VDC
effective voltage for high speed. The fan operates
in low speed only when the fresh food thermistor is

satisfi ed.


:) :) :)
jrtech  
#8 Posted : Monday, March 7, 2011 9:38:24 AM(UTC)
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jrtech

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Joe,

Checked all three trermisters and resistance was within the specified range. Ordered the mother board, installed it, problem solved. Thanks for your help. Very accuate technical service. Its been a pleasure talking with someone that really knows thier stuff.
Joe / APP Team  
#9 Posted : Monday, March 7, 2011 11:18:53 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: jrtech Go to Quoted Post
Joe,

Checked all three trermisters and resistance was within the specified range. Ordered the mother board, installed it, problem solved. Thanks for your help. Very accuate technical service. Its been a pleasure talking with someone that really knows thier stuff.


JR.

Great job,

We're happy, that you're happy,

We try, and do our best, it's our pleasure to assist.

Glad you're up and running,

Good Luck,

:D :D :D
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