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maxfee17  
#1 Posted : Saturday, February 19, 2011 9:02:33 AM(UTC)
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maxfee17

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Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/19/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

Last night we noticed that the freezer was not cold. I checked out Trouble shooting guide and did the following: cleaned condenser (not very dirty), turned controls down to -0- and listened for compressor to turn off and on...it did. The blower working, but the air is not cold. Do you have any other suggestions? Thank you.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, February 20, 2011 5:07:17 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRS26KR4CQ1 Frigidaire/refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Anderson/240389613.pdf

When the units is set to a temperature does the compressor come on and does it cycle on/off?

From your post I get the impression that the compressor does run.
If it runs continuously then you probably have a sealed system or a defrost problem.

Unplug the unit and remove the evaporator cover from inside the freezer so you can see the coils.
If they are heavily frosted/iced over then you have a defrost problem.

If there is no frost or just frost in one area then it is probably a sealed system problem.

If a defrost problem try forcing a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet.
Do not manually defrost them.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
The fans and compressor will turn off when in a defrost cycle.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer/board needs replacing.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer/board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If it is a sealed system problem, the repair will be expensive as you will need a pro. Also there is no guarantee on a long term fix. It usually makes more sense to put the dollars into a new unit.
Check your warranty as many units have a longer sealed system warranty.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
maxfee17  
#3 Posted : Sunday, February 20, 2011 5:47:36 AM(UTC)
Quote
maxfee17

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/19/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRS26KR4CQ1 Frigidaire/refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...f/Anderson/240389613.pdf

When the units is set to a temperature does the compressor come on and does it cycle on/off?

From your post I get the impression that the compressor does run.
If it runs continuously then you probably have a sealed system or a defrost problem.

Unplug the unit and remove the evaporator cover from inside the freezer so you can see the coils.
If they are heavily frosted/iced over then you have a defrost problem.

If there is no frost or just frost in one area then it is probably a sealed system problem.

If a defrost problem try forcing a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet.
Do not manually defrost them.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
The fans and compressor will turn off when in a defrost cycle.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer/board needs replacing.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer/board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If it is a sealed system problem, the repair will be expensive as you will need a pro. Also there is no guarantee on a long term fix. It usually makes more sense to put the dollars into a new unit.
Check your warranty as many units have a longer sealed system warranty.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.


Thank you so much for taking the time to answer me. It is very much appreciated, the unit is running again!!!!
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