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The ice water dispenser quit dispensing. There seems to be a switch that is activated when you push against the

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Old 02-06-2011, 01:47 PM
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Talking Water dispenser quit working
Model Number: KSRS25QDWH00   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: More than 10 years   

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The ice water dispenser quit dispensing. There seems to be a switch that is activated when you push against the padded bracket with a glass. Is there a pump? How does this all work?

I also cannot figure out how to remove the cover and/or cover insert so I can look at the inner workings. How do I remove them? What is the recommended diagnosis and/or repair?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2011, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludwig View Post
The ice water dispenser quit dispensing. There seems to be a switch that is activated when you push against the padded bracket with a glass. Is there a pump? How does this all work?

I also cannot figure out how to remove the cover and/or cover insert so I can look at the inner workings. How do I remove them? What is the recommended diagnosis and/or repair?

Ludwig,

It's not that elaborate a system,

When you press the water dispenser paddle, or the icemaker calls for water to fill the mold, the system activates the solenoid(s) on the fill valve(on the back of the refrigerator),

The fill valve opens and allows water in.

The icemaker has a preset fill time, and allows only so much water to enter the ice maker.

The water dispenser works slightly differently, when the valve opens, the water is released, goes through the filter, then to the water tank, from the tank to the dispenser. If things are working properly, it will dispense water as long as you hold the paddle in.

Now,

Do you hear a switch"click" noise when you press the paddle, and the same when you release it ?

To access the internal components of the dispenser assembly,

***First turn power off or unplug the power cord.***

On the bottom edge of the dispenser facia, you will see two slots molded into the plastic edge.

With a flat blade screwdriver, and a pad of some sort to protect the door panel(some people use the drip grille) pry out or twist the screwdriver, until the bottom of the panel "unsnaps", then carefully push up on the panel, to unhook the tabs from the dispenser housing, and disconnect any harness between the touch pad and control board.

You now have access to the switch mounting bracket assembly,

Remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket to the dispenser housing and carefully move the assembly out to access the switches,and wiring.

Good Luck,
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:30 AM
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Talking Thanks for the message.

Before I start taking things apart I wanted to clarify one point. I do hear a "switch click" noise when I push the water dispenser paddle arm. Is that indicative a switch problem or does it point to something else?

I know that when the ice maker needs water I can hear the flow for a dew seconds so apparently the solenoid is working. Is that a reasonable conclusion?
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Old 02-08-2011, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ludwig View Post
Before I start taking things apart I wanted to clarify one point. I do hear a "switch click" noise when I push the water dispenser paddle arm. Is that indicative a switch problem or does it point to something else?

I know that when the ice maker needs water I can hear the flow for a dew seconds so apparently the solenoid is working. Is that a reasonable conclusion?
Ludwig,

Yes, if the icemaker makes ice, and you can hear the water flowing for 5-7 seconds, the icemaker fill valve solenoid is working.

But you have a dual valve in the refrigerator(on the back of the unit),

One solenoid works the icemaker water supply, and the other operates the water dispenser solenoid.

As a general rule, if you can hear the switch "click", there's a 80% chance the switch is OK.

So,

First, check the water tank/reservoir to see if it is frozen or clogged( you'll need to remove the lower shelves and crisper drawers to see/check it.

If you have access to a multi meter, and a helper,

Set the meter up to read 120 VAC and have someone press the water dispenser paddle, and see if you get 120 VAC across the two wires to the red solenoid , if you get the voltage, you have a bad fill valve, if you don't get the voltage, you'll need to check the switch and wiring(especially at the freezer door hinge wire harness assembly.

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Old 02-12-2011, 09:56 AM
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Default Joe / APP team

I have read your replies but need to go a step further please. I have a GE GSL25JFPA side x side. Thinking the water not dispensing (ice does)was a problem with the valve back/bottom, I have replaced it without results.
I checked the red solenoid and am getting around 12 to 14 volts and when my wife releases the door dispenser for a fraction of a second my meter will jump up in voltage.
Just in case I could see some kind of issue in the door I took the cover off, checked continuity on the switch - was OK, and don't see any other issues.
So, could my water line have frozen or may there be a problem with the small circuit board I removed from the door. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Kerry
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FourMaxK1 View Post
I have read your replies but need to go a step further please. I have a GE GSL25JFPA side x side. Thinking the water not dispensing (ice does)was a problem with the valve back/bottom, I have replaced it without results.
I checked the red solenoid and am getting around 12 to 14 volts and when my wife releases the door dispenser for a fraction of a second my meter will jump up in voltage.
Just in case I could see some kind of issue in the door I took the cover off, checked continuity on the switch - was OK, and don't see any other issues.
So, could my water line have frozen or may there be a problem with the small circuit board I removed from the door. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
Kerry

Kerry,

You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post,

I'm real sure you have a bad mother board, you should be getting 120 VAC at the solenoid, and the fact your getting voltage, to the valve tells me the dispenser board and the switches are working proper.

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Old 02-15-2011, 07:25 PM
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Default water dispenser

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
Kerry,


I'm real sure you have a bad mother board, you should be getting 120 VAC at the solenoid, and the fact your getting voltage, to the valve tells me the dispenser board and the switches are working proper.

thanks, I'll revisit my initial diagnosis and your suggestion on my next day off. will advise. thanks again.
You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post,
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by FourMaxK1 View Post
thanks, I'll revisit my initial diagnosis and your suggestion on my next day off. will advise. thanks again.
You could have a frozen water tank, but based on your post,

OK,

We'll keep an eye for your next post,

Good Luck,

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Old 02-18-2011, 08:57 PM
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Default Repair Kit

wrong topic, sorry.

Last edited by Repairkit77 : 02-21-2011 at 07:36 AM. Reason: off topic
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:32 PM
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Hey, thanks for the input. I did find continuity at the switch. I think my concern may be tied to the voltage at the solenoid. Haven't had a chance to go back and check yet. Thx again.
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