[askvahe]

GE MODEL#GSL25JFPABS
Hello, here is my issue: I have no power to the compressor (115), condenser fan is running but not the compressor. I would like to trace the possible interruption points on the wiring before sequentially checking those points. While I have you, do you know how to test the temperature controls on this model? They are potentiameter dial type. I am used to the easy anolog snap type temperature controls. Thanks you.

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by askvahe

GE MODEL#GSL25JFPABS
Hello, here is my issue: I have no power to the compressor (115), condenser fan is running but not the compressor. I would like to trace the possible interruption points on the wiring before sequentially checking those points. While I have you, do you know how to test the temperature controls on this model? They are potentiameter dial type. I am used to the easy anolog snap type temperature controls. Thanks you.

ASKvahe,

The first place to start would be the main controlboard(on the back of the unit).

Check for 120VAC at connector J7-9
orange wire to TAB1 / J11 Black wire.

Do you have 120VAC - NO voltage

Replace board

Part number: AP4436216

But, here is an attachment for the basic service manual, for your review.

Attachment 2639

[askvahe]

Hi Joe,

Thank you for the quick reply! I have checked for 120VAC at connectors J7-9 Orange wire and J-11 Brown wire - There was 120VAC present. However there wasn't 120VAC between connectors J7-9 Orange wire and J-8 Black wire (that feeds the compressor overload) Should I condamn the control board?

I am assuming the temperature/Freezer controls (potentiameter type) will initiate the operation of the compressor (demand for refrigeration), could it be one of those controls is not working? Thus not allowing potential at J7-9 & J-8? I do not have any information on the said controls! Thanks.

Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team

ASKvahe,

The first place to start would be the main controlboard(on the back of the unit).

Check for 120VAC at connector J7-9
orange wire to TAB1 / J11 Black wire.

Do you have 120VAC - NO voltage

Replace board

Part number: AP4436216

But, here is an attachment for the basic service manual, for your review.

Attachment 2639

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by askvahe

Hi Joe,

Thank you for the quick reply! I have checked for 120VAC at connectors J7-9 Orange wire and J-11 Brown wire - There was 120VAC present. However there wasn't 120VAC between connectors J7-9 Orange wire and J-8 Black wire (that feeds the compressor overload) Should I condamn the control board?

I am assuming the temperature/Freezer controls (potentiameter type) will initiate the operation of the compressor (demand for refrigeration), could it be one of those controls is not working? Thus not allowing potential at J7-9 & J-8? I do not have any information on the said controls! Thanks.

You most likely have a bad " mother board" that seems to be a common component failure for any problem on this style unit.

Here are a couple of other things to check / test, from the service manual, first.

Your compartment(both) thermistor(s) should read 5 to 6,000 ohms resistance at room temperature.

Part number: AP3185407

I don't think you'll find a problem there.

And here's a quick test for the encoder(potentiometer) switches.

Unplug encoder
(temperature control)
harness. Does the
refrigerator start once the

harness is unplugged?

Yes,

Replace encoder board

(temperature control)

You should have it figured out from there.

Good Luck,

[Reinh]

I have the same GE MODEL#GSL25JFPABS. Ice maker auger motor not coming on when button selected on from panel. Checked the motor an it is fine. Solenoid engages and hear it click them hum. Was told it's either the MB or the front panel control board. It there a test to be sure which one is the problem?

[richappy]

The schematic is behind the encoder panel. Use it to check the evaporator thermistor, check your schematic, evaporator thermistor can be measured between J1- pin 5 and I think J1- pin 4 should be around 5 Kohm at room temperature.
If the thermistor is a higher resistance, it is causing the motherboard to hang up in defrost mode.

[richappy]

It is a rarity the encoder fails on these, in my service experience I have never had a problem with one.
The schematic is behind the encoder panel. Use it to check the evaporator
thermistor, check your schematic, evaporator thermistor can be measured between J1- pin 5 and I think J1- pin 4 should be around 5 Kohm at room temperature.
If the thermistor is a higher resistance, it is causing the motherboard to hang up in defrost mode.