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capthank  
#1 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 9:05:30 AM(UTC)
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capthank

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The freezer is not getting cold so I pulled it out and cleaned all the coils underneath. Cleaned the motor and fan and put eveything back together (back panel) . Opened up the freezer and removed the back panel and found the top part of the coil icing or frosting up. I suspected the heating coil being defective but by unconecting the wires and jumping it with an ohm meter in rX1 mode it read about 20 ohms so it had continuity so looked like it is ok. Next came the defrost thermostat which attaches right beside it on the coils. thought it might be this at first but pulled it out and jumped it with an ohm meter but this unit is normally in the open mode and that's what it read so I grabbed a can of my quick freeze and hit it with that and right away it made continuity so it seems that is in good shape. I guess that only leaves the defrost timer ? Now , just where to find it as I don't have a manual on it. Then go through the screwdriver turn clockwise until it clicks off and take it from there. Does this sound about right to you pro geeks? Anearly reply would be appreciated as the ice is melting ~~~and everything else. thank you , Hank
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magician59  
#2 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 9:27:57 AM(UTC)
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magician59

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If you saw only a partial frost pattern on the evaporator coil, You either have a leak in the system, or a restriction. If it's practical, remove everything from your unit (so you won't lose any food), and unplug the refrigerator and leave it unplugged for 24-48 hours. Plug it back in and see if the restriction clears up (if it is a restriction, SOMETIMES the surge of starting the compressor will move or break up the restriction).

If this doesn't work, you'll need to decide whether it's worth paying a pro to do a sealed system repair.
capthank  
#3 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 9:53:04 AM(UTC)
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capthank

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Originally Posted by: magician59 Go to Quoted Post
If you saw only a partial frost pattern on the evaporator coil, You either have a leak in the system, or a restriction. If it's practical, remove everything from your unit (so you won't lose any food), and unplug the refrigerator and leave it unplugged for 24-48 hours. Plug it back in and see if the restriction clears up (if it is a restriction, SOMETIMES the surge of starting the compressor will move or break up the restriction).

If this doesn't work, you'll need to decide whether it's worth paying a pro to do a sealed system repair.

Hope I'm entering this in the right place for my reply? Funny thing after running all night( at least the power was on ) I expected the coils to beall frosted up but they were frost free this morning so I just turned up the colder knob and it starded up again and iced up about half of the coils now. That's where it sits now. I guess I could use the 24/48 procedure you suggested . Man, that's not what I wanted to hear as I could swap out for new parts. This thing uses R-134 freon. Guess I could probe around under there with my sniffer but aqs usual it's a bitch to get there physically. What do you think a pro charges to run a sealed system repair ? Hank
magician59  
#4 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 10:02:44 AM(UTC)
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magician59

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Charges depand on what part of the country you're in; what the diagnosis is. Rour best bet is to call around (It's best if your locale has more than one appliance repair shop) and ask for pricing to diagnose the refrigerator, given your description of the problem.
capthank  
#5 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 10:15:17 AM(UTC)
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capthank

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Originally Posted by: magician59 Go to Quoted Post
Charges depand on what part of the country you're in; what the diagnosis is. Rour best bet is to call around (It's best if your locale has more than one appliance repair shop) and ask for pricing to diagnose the refrigerator, given your description of the problem.

I haven't done that defrost timer check yet where you turn off the timer with a screwdriver clockwise and that should bring on the defrost cycle. You think it's worthwhile to run that one or your certain it's what you said in your first reply ? This is S. Calif. so the rates here are at the top of the thermometer!! We have tons of repair shops around. You have any idea where this defrost timer is in these Frigidaire double door models ( Apr 1996 ) Thanks Hank
magician59  
#6 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 10:36:43 AM(UTC)
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magician59

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It can't hurt you to do the check; although I don't believe that is your problem. Here's a parts break down. It's located behind the toe grille, on the left wall, under the freezer section (part #23 in the drawing).


Controls replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRS26ZGEW1 Frg(v3) / Side By Side Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com
Part number: AP2111929
capthank  
#7 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 10:55:59 AM(UTC)
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capthank

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Originally Posted by: capthank Go to Quoted Post
I haven't done that defrost timer check yet where you turn off the timer with a screwdriver clockwise and that should bring on the defrost cycle. You think it's worthwhile to run that one or your certain it's what you said in your first reply ? This is S. Calif. so the rates here are at the top of the thermometer!! We have tons of repair shops around. You have any idea where this defrost timer is in these Frigidaire double door models ( Apr 1996 ) Thanks Hank

Ok. thanks for the info~~~~`here again it sounds like a bear to get to. Sort of like these autos ( that's what they call these plastic pieces of junk they are making now ) I'm glad I was born in an era where they made good stuff and out of steel. That's like my 79 Caddie sitting out there with less than 100K on it Anyway I've already got the toe grill off there and look for the timer and will call around for a system check for a leak. Thanks for the help. Hank
capthank  
#8 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 11:43:12 AM(UTC)
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capthank

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Originally Posted by: capthank Go to Quoted Post
I haven't done that defrost timer check yet where you turn off the timer with a screwdriver clockwise and that should bring on the defrost cycle. You think it's worthwhile to run that one or your certain it's what you said in your first reply ? This is S. Calif. so the rates here are at the top of the thermometer!! We have tons of repair shops around. You have any idea where this defrost timer is in these Frigidaire double door models ( Apr 1996 ) Thanks Hank

O.K. here's the latest~~~~~didn't think I was gonna find out anything more today but after your last mail I went back and found that timer where you said it was but it doesn't look anything like the picture you sent me. It's black in color also. I turned it clockwise until I heard the compressor shut off and I waited about 8 minutes then wet my two fingers and touched the heater element and sure enough it was getting hot. I stuck my sniffer under there but it's a real old one and not too reliable. So it looks like you might be right in your opinion? Standing by, Hank
capthank  
#9 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 2:05:03 PM(UTC)
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capthank

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Originally Posted by: capthank Go to Quoted Post
I haven't done that defrost timer check yet where you turn off the timer with a screwdriver clockwise and that should bring on the defrost cycle. You think it's worthwhile to run that one or your certain it's what you said in your first reply ? This is S. Calif. so the rates here are at the top of the thermometer!! We have tons of repair shops around. You have any idea where this defrost timer is in these Frigidaire double door models ( Apr 1996 ) Thanks Hank

I sent another thread about 1 pm PST but didn't get a reply. I went back and found the deforost timer and turned it clockwise until the compressor shut down and this should put it in the defrost mode. I waited about 8 minutes and then wet my fingers like you do on an iron and touched the heating element and sure enough it was getting hot so it looks like you might be right on a freon leak somewhere? Will call around and get some quotes for a repair. Thanks again Hank
magician59  
#10 Posted : Friday, December 3, 2010 3:21:29 PM(UTC)
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magician59

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Try to keep your fingers out of those places. We don't want to lose anybody because he or she came into careless contact with the lethal voltage that runs our appliances.
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