GE Refrigerator Model GSH25KGRBWW / S/N: HG256461 .. The refrigerator side is freezing. The damper door is open, so I manually closed it part way, unplugged/plugged in the fridge. The door does not move. Checked the resistance:

*red+blue = infinite
*white+blue = 400 ohms
yellow+red = 400 ohms
yellow+white = infinite
red+white = infinite
yellow+blue = infinite

I read somewhere that the resistances to check are the two starred ones. Can I say for sure that the damper assembly is bad or do I need to check voltages at the control board too?

Also, couldn't I also set the damper door about half way open, leave it, and set the LED refrigerator setting to '1' or lowest and forget about repairing it (assuming the door position gives me the rough temperature I want) ?

Thanks for responding. I noticed that the two resistors near J2 don't seem to be burned, but there is a small part on the main board that partially melted (near J3). It looks like an IC chip, anyway it shows connections to J3 pins 1-4 which go to the damper. Maybe the damper motor shorted, I don't know but not good to see a melted/burned part on the board.

Also, the evaporator fan stopped working. I am thinking of replacing the main control board, the evaporator fan and damper motor assembly. Am I on the right track? I can't finish testing all the evaporator fan steps because whenever I check voltages on J2, the compressor restarts after sparking. I've read on here that it can be a good idea to replace the board and evaporator fan together. I'm a little iffy on the damper motor - if there was some way I could bench test it but I don't know how to hook the wires to a battery. The thermistors are all good. Any further suggestions?

Thanks for the reply. The resistances are at 413 ohms so I assume that is okay. Can you give me more detailed instructions on how to do that winding checks to see if they have shorted to each other, where to measure it, etc. I don't know how to check if windings have shorted to each other. Wouldn't one of my resistance measurements up above been 0 or near 0 were that the case since I did every possible resistance check?

Also, since that motor is wired to the board where I indicated, is it possible that the motor could have caused that chip to burn up? I'm concerned that if I replace the board the damper motor that it could fry the board (again?).

Thanks again.