[byw1004]

A long history, on my 12 year old Amana side-by-side frig.

About 6 months ago, the freezer stopped working. Found out it was cold and icy on the bottom, but warm everywhere else. A local service company came in and replaced the defrost thermostat, everyting started working.

About 2 months ago, same problem happened again. I decided to buy the thermostat and replaced it myself. The freezer was revived.

Then I found out not ice was made.

• The ice maker seems to be fine. If I add water myself, it would make ice. Actually, I am making ice by feeding the water once or twice a day.
• The feeding tube into the icemaker is not frozen.
• Water dispensor works, but kind of hit and miss. Once in a while it would do absolutely nothing when I put the cup there.

Is this a problem of the water valve that needs to be replaced? Or, the icemaker is not sending the signal to the water valve to feed water? How do I tell?

This is about the last time I am trying to fix it before ditching it for another one. 3 strikes .

Thanks
Yansheng

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by byw1004

A long history, on my 12 year old Amana side-by-side frig.

About 6 months ago, the freezer stopped working. Found out it was cold and icy on the bottom, but warm everywhere else. A local service company came in and replaced the defrost thermostat, everyting started working.

About 2 months ago, same problem happened again. I decided to buy the thermostat and replaced it myself. The freezer was revived.

Then I found out not ice was made.

• The ice maker seems to be fine. If I add water myself, it would make ice. Actually, I am making ice by feeding the water once or twice a day.
• The feeding tube into the icemaker is not frozen.
• Water dispensor works, but kind of hit and miss. Once in a while it would do absolutely nothing when I put the cup there.

Is this a problem of the water valve that needs to be replaced? Or, the icemaker is not sending the signal to the water valve to feed water? How do I tell?

This is about the last time I am trying to fix it before ditching it for another one. 3 strikes .

Thanks
Yansheng

Yansheng,

Since your ice maker fill tube is not frozen,and if you checked and made sure you did not leave a loose wire or connection when you repaired the themostat.

Yes it could possibly be a bad fill valve, and the most likely problem at this point.

Part number: AP4011609

I would also reccomend you check your water supply line to the fill valve, check and replace the inline water filter (if present), and flush the water line, as well.

There is no way to test the power to the fill valve without a multimeter,

If you have a meter, we will be happy to advise you further.

Good Luck,

[byw1004]

Hi, Joe,

Since the thermostat is in the freezer compartment, I hope I didn't break anything that would affect water supply to the icemaker. Time will tell.

I would think the water intake is fine. I don't have a water filter. Also, since water does come out (most of the time) for the water dispensor, I assume water does get into the water valve, at least.

I do have a multimeter, and am reasonably ok in using it. Can you provide some information on how I can test it? My assumption is that the voltage will raise between the 2 terminals to activate the valve. My initial thought is like this.
- I can put the multimeter to 1 pair of the terminals that controls the water dispensor at the door, and monitor the voltage change when the water dispensor is pused.
- Then I can put the multimeter to the other pair of terminals (for the icemaker). But how can I be right there at the right time of the ice making cycle?

Thanks

[Joe / APP Team]

Originally Posted by byw1004

Hi, Joe,

Since the thermostat is in the freezer compartment, I hope I didn't break anything that would affect water supply to the icemaker. Time will tell.

I would think the water intake is fine. I don't have a water filter. Also, since water does come out (most of the time) for the water dispensor, I assume water does get into the water valve, at least.

I do have a multimeter, and am reasonably ok in using it. Can you provide some information on how I can test it? My assumption is that the voltage will raise between the 2 terminals to activate the valve. My initial thought is like this.
- I can put the multimeter to 1 pair of the terminals that controls the water dispensor at the door, and monitor the voltage change when the water dispensor is pused.
- Then I can put the multimeter to the other pair of terminals (for the icemaker). But how can I be right there at the right time of the ice making cycle?

Thanks

Byw,

Yes, the defrost thermostat is in the freezer compartment, so is the wiring to and from the ice maker...

That's why I said you may want to check there as well.

As for your testing procedure

Yes you are correct.

You can disconnect the wires to the fill valve solenoid and check for 120 volts ac when you press the dispenser button.

The ice maker is not quite that easy,

You will need an insulated jumper wire, bare at both ends,

Remove the ice maker control module cover from the front of the icemaker.

Insert the ends of the jumper wire into the T and H opennings in the control module panel,

hold the jumper in, until large gear starts to move, then remove the jumper wire.

When the rake arm is between the 1 o'clock and the 2 o'clock position the ice maker should send 120 volts ac to the fill valve for 5 to 8 seconds(approximately) and if you set up your meter correctly, (before you start the test) you should have plenty of time to get to the valve and check the voltage by the time the mechanism gets to the fill segment of the ice making cycle.

Good Luck,