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So, after a couple days of making subtly unusual sounds, I woke up to a dark fridge. When I plugged

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Old 08-12-2010, 11:26 AM
ECS ECS is offline
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Default Relay Overload/Run Capacitor
Model Number: FRS26ZGHB3   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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So, after a couple days of making subtly unusual sounds, I woke up to a dark fridge. When I plugged it in to a different circuit, it made a distinct motor-not-happy burning smell. I gather the first step is to replace the relay overload switch, as the compressor is obviously still trying to work. I'd like to give this a shot on my own before shelling out for a pro.

I've looked over the and have two questions:
1. Is the relay overload switch part of the run capacitor in this model?
2. Is there anything else important for me to know? Damage I could do, other things to replace while I'm at it, etc?

I'm starting graduate school in a couple of weeks, and don't need any more financial anxiety than absolutely necessary. Many thanks.

FRS26ZGHB3 SYSTEM


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2010, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECS View Post
So, after a couple days of making subtly unusual sounds, I woke up to a dark fridge. When I plugged it in to a different circuit, it made a distinct motor-not-happy burning smell. I gather the first step is to replace the relay overload switch, as the compressor is obviously still trying to work. I'd like to give this a shot on my own before shelling out for a pro.

I've looked over the and have two questions:
1. Is the relay overload switch part of the run capacitor in this model?
2. Is there anything else important for me to know? Damage I could do, other things to replace while I'm at it, etc?

I'm starting graduate school in a couple of weeks, and don't need any more financial anxiety than absolutely necessary. Many thanks.

FRS26ZGHB3 SYSTEM
Base on available info,

The capacitor and the relay appear to be a single part, but

They are 2 separate parts.

The capacitor slips on to the shaft on the relay,and the terminals slip and connect to the internall terminals of the relay assembly.

You most likely need a start relay,not a run capacitor,if cost is the major concern,(I've replaced more relays than capacitors).

Just remember to unplug the power cord, and install the wires on the same numberred terminals as the original relay.

I just hope you don't have a shorted compressor winding.

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Old 08-12-2010, 02:57 PM
ECS ECS is offline
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Thanks! I was confused by the term "starter." Fortunately, it all seems fairly simple except:

The wires to the relay overload don't seem to detach--I have to cut them and use wire nuts to install the replacement, right?
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Old 08-12-2010, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECS View Post
Thanks! I was confused by the term "starter." Fortunately, it all seems fairly simple except:

The wires to the relay overload don't seem to detach--I have to cut them and use wire nuts to install the replacement, right?
No,

No wire nuts needed,

Cut the wires as close to the relay body,
Remove 3/8 to 12 inch of the insukation and insert the wire into the matching holes in the relay.

Tug on the wire, slightly, so they clip into the internal retainers in the relay.

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Old 08-13-2010, 10:08 AM
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I just hope you don't have a shorted compressor winding.

[/quote]

The new starter is in and appears to be working, except every minute or so the system 'hiccups,' during which the power seems to briefly go out. Would this be a symptom of said shorted compressor winding?
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:16 AM
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It actually seems to be sapping the entire circuit--there's a zapping sounds and the lights dim.
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Old 08-13-2010, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECS View Post
It actually seems to be sapping the entire circuit--there's a zapping sounds and the lights dim.
Check your voltage at the outlet, first, or try a different outlet.

You may have a low voltage situation(voltage drops below 105 volts). will wreak all kinds of havoc.

Otherwise you've most likely have a compressor on the way out.
motor windings weak and creating a heavy draw on the electrical circuits.

If you can get or have a ammeter the maximum draw on a compressor at 120 volts is 14 amps and will drop to 2 to 4 amps after a few minutes of run time.

If you stay above 6 amps and you have 120 volts at the outlet, your compressor is on the way out.
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:56 PM
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Thanks. I tried on three circuits with the same results. I think it might have blown the starter/overload again. Bad news, but I much appreciate the advice.
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Old 08-13-2010, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks. I tried on three circuits with the same results. I think it might have blown the starter/overload again. Bad news, but I much appreciate the advice.
You may have tripped the overload, you need to wait a few minutes(5 to 10) between tests or the overload will overheat and open, the compressor won't start.

You may still be OK for a while.

Good Luck !!!
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