[capuanma]

I exerpience the typical ice cream melt and low temps in the fresh food section of this older top freeze 18 cu.ft. model. It seems that my freezer fan has stopped working. I checked the voltage to it, expecting to see 120 or 0, but what I found was 70 volts ac! When I jumper 120 volts from the ice cube maker, the fan ran fine. Trouble is, the ice cube maker wire seems to carry power even when the compressor is off, so I really need to understand why I've got low voltage to the fan. Any ideas?

[denman]

Without a model number I cannot find a wiring diagram.

Depending how the unit is wired it could be dirty contacts in the defrost timer or a bad connector/wire which carries power to the evaporator fan.

I am assuming that the compressor and the condenser fan run OK.

[capuanma]

I think so. I can hear the fan and condenser running, and the inside temps seem to be just fine (35° in Fridge and -5° in Freezer). Just this dead fan in the freezer. I guess I don't understand how I can have these temperatures and still have soft ice cream and not-so-cold beer.

The wall outlet shows 120 v. I was wondering, if I simply jumper the circuit from the ice maker (don't have one, but the unit is equiped for one) the fan will run all the time, except when it's in defrost mode. I know it'll cost me few extra bucks in electricity, but wouldn't that be a fix? As soon as I remember the model number I'll post it.

[denman]

I don't understand how I can have these temperatures and still have soft ice cream and not-so-cold beer.
Without the evaporator fan circulating air you will develop a temperature gradient in the units re: colder at the bottom warmer up top. At least that is all I can think of.

the fan will run all the time, except when it's in defrost mode. I know it'll cost me few extra bucks in electricity, but wouldn't that be a fix?
I am not sure on this as I do not know if that ice maker voltage will shut off during defrost.
Perhaps someone else has the answer to this.

[capuanma]

It's Model # TA18R2L
It's really an old one. And you're so right, the ice maker power seems to NEVER shut off...even when it's defrosting. So that may not be a solution.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for AMANA TA18R2L Ref - Top Mount | AppliancePartsPros.com

I could not find a wiring diagram for the unit.

Fact is I could not even find the defrost timer in the parts.
A wiring diagram may be taped to the units back wall or tucked in under the unit, it would make finding the problem a lot easier.

Without a diagram the best you can do is try to trace the fan wires.

Here is an example of an older fridge wiring but yours may be different
http://www.applianceaid.com/images/samgediagram.JPG
At this point it is just a shot in the dark.

If you cannot find what is causing the voltage drop a jiggery pokery fix would be to run wires up to the fan connected across the condenser fan. It is risky as you will probably have to drill through the back of the freezer but at this point there is nothing to loose.

With a littler luck someone else will jump in with the info you need.

[capuanma]

Thanks Denman, I'll keep my fingers crossed. I did go ahead last night and jumper the fan to the ice cube maker & now it runs all the time. This morning I woke up to find my fresh food section at 20°, and my freezer at 35°. I guess it's because I'm now pulling all the cold air away from the freezer. Which "temporary fix would you suggest - taping shut some of the vents, or power a small 24 hour timer in between the ice cube maker wires and the fan & setting it to run say 50% of the time to start with & then pushing & puliling pins until I get the right "mix". I'm being quite ******** about this machine, but the house is for sale & I really don't want to give away a new refrigerator.

[denman]

Your higher freezer temperature may be due to the unit going through a defrost cycle. If the evaporator fan stays on then heat from the defrost heater is blown into the freezer.

In my neck of the woods if you buy a house with appliances and the appliances do not work the buyer can go after the seller for repair or replacement costs.
This puts a lot of the decision making into the hands of the buyer and usually ends up with the seller having to supply a new unit. You may be better off buying a good used unit if you cannot fix this one.
Who knows a newer unit may even help sell the house.

[capuanma]

As I think about it, I'm starting to see things that way, too. Maybe I'll "mess " with it for another day or so, and unless I get some positive results, I'll just go with a new unit. Selling the house is worth a whole lot more than a few hundred for a new fridge, and yet it can make a big difference to a potential buyer. Either way I'll let you know what I decide. Thanks so much for your help.

[denman]

You are welcome and good luck with it, I will keep my fingers crossed.