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Marciad34  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, August 4, 2010 8:37:11 AM(UTC)
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Marciad34

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Hello all,
I am new here and this is my first question but this problem has been going on for months. The Evaporator coil is freezing pretty much every day. We have to put a blow dryer to it constantly. The fridge was over 60 degrees yesterday. We have a new mother board and a new defrost thermostat. These were both replaced months ago. What else could it be or any tests I could try. Any help would be appreciated.
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, August 4, 2010 11:41:21 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: Marciad34 Go to Quoted Post
Hello all,
I am new here and this is my first question but this problem has been going on for months. The Evaporator coil is freezing pretty much every day. We have to put a blow dryer to it constantly. The fridge was over 60 degrees yesterday. We have a new mother board and a new defrost thermostat. These were both replaced months ago. What else could it be or any tests I could try. Any help would be appreciated.


Since you replaced the mother board and the defrost bi metal,I take for granted you tested the defrost heater, and all was ok and working ?

Have you tested the freezer and fresh food thermistors ?

It's best to check the resistance at the board, so you read, what the board sees. If the resistance is out of range or not existant that could cause your problem.
(board is telling the compressor to run because it hasn't reached the temperature setting)

That's your next test if your heater is OK.
Marciad34  
#3 Posted : Thursday, August 5, 2010 8:32:30 AM(UTC)
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Marciad34

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Posts: 11

No we have not tested the thermistors where are they located? Thanks for your response.
Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Since you replaced the mother board and the defrost bi metal,I take for granted you tested the defrost heater, and all was ok and working ?

Have you tested the freezer and fresh food thermistors ?

It's best to check the resistance at the board, so you read, what the board sees. If the resistance is out of range or not existant that could cause your problem.
(board is telling the compressor to run because it hasn't reached the temperature setting)

That's your next test if your heater is OK.
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Thursday, August 5, 2010 10:27:21 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: Marciad34 Go to Quoted Post
No we have not tested the thermistors where are they located? Thanks for your response.


Your fresh food thermistor is located near the air damper, under a cylindrical cover, in the left rear ceiling area.

Your freezer thermistor is in the relatively same area, in the rear corner area,under the same cylindrical cover,as the other compartment.

But as I said, " It's best to check at the mother board connectors" so you see what the control board sees.

Hope this helps you.
Marciad34  
#5 Posted : Monday, August 23, 2010 10:10:36 AM(UTC)
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Marciad34

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Hello again,

Can you please let me know exactly how to test the following?

Sensor Temp

Thermostat Defroster

Evap Thermistor

Defrost Heater

Are all 4 test suppose to be done from the motherboard direct? And if so is there a diagram of the mother board to know where each one is on the board itself?

Also we have changed out the Defrost Heater on 3 separate occasions do you know what would cause that to keep going bad?

We have had this problem still but just keep using the the blow dryer to defrost and my fiance finally has some time to look at it further. Any help would be appreciated.
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Monday, August 23, 2010 11:12:04 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: Marciad34 Go to Quoted Post
Hello again,

Can you please let me know exactly how to test the following?

Sensor Temp

Thermostat Defroster

Evap Thermistor

Defrost Heater

Are all 4 test suppose to be done from the motherboard direct? And if so is there a diagram of the mother board to know where each one is on the board itself?

Also we have changed out the Defrost Heater on 3 separate occasions do you know what would cause that to keep going bad?

We have had this problem still but just keep using the the blow dryer to defrost and my fiance finally has some time to look at it further. Any help would be appreciated.


I have attached excerpts from the service manual for you,

That will get you into the diagnostic mode, and other motherboard tests you will need to do.

There's a lot of information you will need to digest, more than I can get you here.

Good Luck,

:) :) :)


Self Diagnostics


To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display
can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are
illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all
4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and
freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.
To perform a self diagnostic test, locate the test in Table 2, Diagnostic Tests.
For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button
will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the
numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the
freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in
the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test.
Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.
For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will
increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the
numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the

freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in
the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test
code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

When testing has been completed, do one of the following things:
• Enter code 1 5 to completely reset the system.
• Enter code 1 6 to exit diagnostic mode. The temperature control panel is reset automatically.
• Unplug the refrigerator for at least 10 seconds. Test mode will terminate when the refrigerator is
plugged back in.

Freezer
Display
Refrigerator
Display
Mode Comments

0 2
Temperature control panel to main
control board communication
P on the FZ display if OK.
F on the FZ display if not OK.
0 3
Temperature control panel to
dispenser board communication
P on the FZ display if OK.
F on the FZ display if not OK.
0 4
Dispenser board to main control
board communication
P on the FZ display if OK.
F on the FZ display if not OK.
0 6
Temperature control panel selftest
See Temperature Control Panel Self-Test on page 35.
0 7
Control and sensor system selftest
See Control and Sensor Self-Test on page 36.
1 0 Open damper Damper will open, pause briefly, then close.
1 1 Fan speed test Each fan will run for 10 seconds, then stop.
1 2 100% run time
This mode runs the sealed system 100% of the time
for 1 hour.
1 3 Enter pre-chill
This places the freezer in pre-chill mode. The
refrigerator will return to normal operation on its own.
1 4 Enter defrost
This will set the refrigerator into the defrost mode. If
the cabinet is not cold when executed, this mode may
execute extremely fast. The refrigerator will return to
normal operation on its own.
1 5 Refrigerator reset Causes a system reset.
1 6 Test mode exit
Causes system to exit test mode and resets
temperature control panel.
1 7 Degree C/F
Refrigerator temperature adjust keys can be used to

change display from F
Test mode will terminate automatically after 15 minutes of inactivity.

Temperature Control Panel Self-Test (0 6)

This test applies only to the temperature control board inside the fresh food compartment.
When the Temperature Control Panel Self-Test is initiated, all of the LEDs and numerical segments in the
displays will illuminate. When the SAFE THAW button is pushed, all 3 LEDs for safe thaw should turn
off. When the QUICK CHILL button is pressed, all 3 LEDs for the quick chill should turn off. Continue
this process for each LED/Button pair on the display. The colder key is to turn off seven-segment
LEDs. The warmer key is to turn off the Set LED for both the freezer and the fresh food compartments.
To exit the Temperature Control Panel Self-Test, both of the refrigerator temperature adjust keys
must

be pressed simultaneously for 3 seconds. This can be done at any time to exit the test


Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)

This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code
(0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order
listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.
If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and
3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not
equipped with the Quick Chill option.
Thermistor test results:

P = Pass

0 = Failed

S = Short to 5 VDC

B = Bad amplifier
Thermistor test sequence is:
1. Fresh food top thermistor
2. Fresh food bottom thermistor
3. Quick chill thermistor (displays 0 if unit is not equipped with Quick Chill option)
4. Evaporator thermistor
5. Freezer thermistor

Note: Thermistor test results will be displayed in the sequence shown above. The thermistor test

sequence number will not be shown on the display

Heavy Frost on Evaporator

Run Service Diagnostic Test (1-4)
Defrost system check
Does defrost heater come on?
Carefully unplug J9 blue connector from
main board. Measure between blue wire on
connector and neutral orange wire on main
board J7. Is there approximately 27Ω?
No
Check for 120 VAC from
neutral orange wire J7 to
defrost terminal J9 on main
board.
Is 120 VAC present?
Yes
Run Service Diagnostic Test (0-7)
for thermistors
Do thermistors pass test?
Check door ajar
Customer usage -
numerous door openings
Yes
Repair wiring connections
or
replace thermistor
No
No
Replace
Yes main board
Check wiring harness
Check defrost heater
Check defrost thermostat
Reinstall blue connector
Measure for 120VAC
at defrost heater.
Is 120VAC present?
Check wiring
between heater
and main board
No
Yes
Replace
defrost
heater
Yes
No

Caution: Unplug
Marciad34  
#7 Posted : Monday, August 23, 2010 11:43:11 AM(UTC)
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Marciad34

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Posts: 11

Thank you for this info. I just wanted to make sure that this is for the the model GSS-22SGMBB5? Our display is not illuminated so I wanted to make sure of that. Is the service manual something I can find online we never rec'd once since the fridge was not new when we purchased.
Joe / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Monday, August 23, 2010 2:02:37 PM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: Marciad34 Go to Quoted Post
Thank you for this info. I just wanted to make sure that this is for the the model GSS-22SGMBB5? Our display is not illuminated so I wanted to make sure of that. Is the service manual something I can find online we never rec'd once since the fridge was not new when we purchased.


I apologize,

I don't know where I made the mistake ? The information I supplied you was for a different version of the machine you have.

I can't find a service manual in the technical information we have here(nothing I can e mail,anyway).

You can do the resistance checks at the mother board on connector J1.

At room temp. the resistance should be 5,000 ohms and at 0 degrees the resistance should be 35,000 ohms.these are negative co efficient thermistors(the colder they are , the higher resistance).

At the J1 connector on the mother board :

Pin 5, is the common(will use on all checks).

Pin 4, is the evaporator thermistor(should be 36,000 ohms or higher).

Pin 3, is the freezer thermistor( should be 35 to 34,000 ohms).

Pin 2, is the upper fresh food thermistor(should be 12,000 ohms).

Pin 1,(if present) will have the same resistance as pin 2.

If you want the service manual, your best bet is to contact the manufacturer. and order it through them.
Marciad34  
#9 Posted : Monday, August 30, 2010 8:54:55 AM(UTC)
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Marciad34

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Joined: 8/4/2010(UTC)
Posts: 11

Hi, so the motherboard that I recently purchased was under warranty so I switched it out and rec'd a new one that should of taken care of the problem correct? Well it didn't the coil was frozen today any other ideas? I am really stumped on this. Is there anything else we can check? Does it sound like we need a new fridge?
Joe / APP Team  
#10 Posted : Monday, August 30, 2010 11:54:03 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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:( :(
Originally Posted by: Marciad34 Go to Quoted Post
Hi, so the motherboard that I recently purchased was under warranty so I switched it out and rec'd a new one that should of taken care of the problem correct? Well it didn't the coil was frozen today any other ideas? I am really stumped on this. Is there anything else we can check? Does it sound like we need a new fridge?


No, You don't need a new refrigerator.

You probably have a loose connection or an out of range resistance control device, But , I only have a general service manual and it does not have any specific information that pertains to your particular model unit.

***Your best bet would be to contact the manufacturer's customer service dept. and see if they can get you the service manual / tech data sheet.***

I have used all the information I have at hand,
I have made all the reccomendations and tests I can, with the information I have available to me.

That should be the next move you make,
:( :( :(
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