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Hello,
I just found this forum and it seems really helpful. Unfortunately I was not able to find an answer to the problem I'm experiencing.
Here's my problem: Freezer won't defrost.
I own a GE side by side PN GSS22JETA BB
I have already checked the defrost heater and there was continuity so I'm assuming it is good.
I just pulled the defrost thermostat and I'm confused. There was continuity when I first tested it (I'm assuming it was still cold enough). The weird thing is I can't get the thermostat to open. I've had it setting at room temperature for 2 hours now and there is still continuity. The part number on the thermostat is WR50X10074 or WR50X10068. Is this normal for the thermostat?
I was thinking that if the thermostat remains closed then this probably isnt my problem because the defrost heater should still work right?
What initiates the defrost cycle on my side by side? Is it something in the motherboard or does it come from something else
(2 thermostats may be)?
I really don't want to spend the money on a new motherboard if that isn't the problem.
Please help!!!!!!!!!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/25/2010(UTC)
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Found some more information today.
The thermostat in my fringe does not control the defrost cycle. It is just a safety device in case the defrost heater does not shut off. I was able to find out that the thermostat does not open until it reaches 140 f internally. I confirmed this by sticking it in the oven and sure enough I got it to open.
I also verified that my heater is woking because I noticed that it came on last night.
My initial problem was that I noticed water would form in my freezer and then turn to ice once the condenser kicked on. My ice cubes were also sticking together in my ice maker dispenser.
After two days of troubleshooting I'm coming to the conclusion that my defrost cycle is getting too hot which is causing my freezer to get to warm during the defrost cycle. This has already wreaked havoc because the access water forming in my freezer during the defrost cycle caused my icemaker to short out (I just replaced it last week).
I'm assuming that I should replace my thermistors since they relay the temperature back to the motherboard? Should I also replace the evaporator fan? Does anyone have any advice?
Please help!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/25/2010(UTC)
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I now have a new problem
My fridge is now warming up. I have a damper system and I verified that it is wide open. I can not feel any air coming through even though the freezer is running. I checked the air return at the bottom and it is not blocked.
The fan is running in the freezer so why isn't the cold air making it into the fridge?
I'm ready to throw this fridge out my window...
Does anyone out there have some knowledge of my problems?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Your defrost thermostat is supposed to open at around 55 degrees.
For the cooling problem, if the fans and compressor fail to run, remove the motherboard and check the solder connections by the power relay, sometimes they fail.
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Rank: Member
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I would like to point out that the defrost thermostat is a 140 degree thermostat. His refrigerator (along with most refrigerators that have the motherboard) has use the WR50X10068, which is a 140-30 thermostat. It opens at 140 and closes at 110. However I don’t thing this is the problem. If in fact the defrost cycle is staying on too long it is possible that it will not cut off until the freezer reaches 140 degrees. The thermistor on the evaporator or the main board can cause this. The main board is supposed to turn the defrost cycle within 45 minutes. Even if the thermistor is still “telling” the main board to keep defrosting. If the defrost cycle is staying on longer than 45 minutes the main board is bad. If the thermistor is “telling” the main board to keep the heater on for the entire 45 minutes when it doesn’t need to be on (the frost is gone) then the thermistor is bad. I am a little confused about your post first you say it will not defrost then you say it is defrosting too long. Now it seems like the compressor isn’t running in which case a bad solder joint is a likely cause, as already pointed out. GE Refrigerator Repair GuideTesting A Refrigerator Thermistor On A GE Refrigerator
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Rank: Member
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Unfortunately I had to give in and call a service technician today. I will make sure to post the results once the fridge is fixed.
Thanks richappy and applianceman for trying to help!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/25/2010(UTC)
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Here is the rundown on my problems and eventual solution.
I first realized something was wrong with my freezer when I started to notice condensation on the inside of my freezer. I decided to try and troubleshoot the problem myself and took out the rear panel that covers the evaporator coils. The evaporator coils were covered in frost. After seeing this and reading many posts I came to the conclusion that I had a defrosting problem.
I removed the defrost heater and checked for continuity and it passed. I then began to think the thermostat was the issue. I later found out that with my model fridge (and most all fridges with computer boards) the thermostat does not control the defrost cycle. It’s purpose is more of a safety device. The thermostat breaks the circuit to the heater once it reaches a temperature above 140F.
While I was testing the thermostat I hard wired the two wires together to see if the defrost heater would come on. The heater did eventually come on and it melted all the frost off the evaporator coils. During this cycle I also noticed that the defrost heater stayed on for a while and really rose the temperature in my freezer.
Once I witnessed this I realized that I wasn’t dealing with a defrost problem but with an overheating during defrost cycle problem. I did some more research and discovered that the cycling of the defrost cycle in my fridge is controlled by 2 temperature sensors (thermistors) which sends a signal to the motherboard. The motherboard then decides when to initiate or terminate the defrost cycles.
I was pretty sure I needed new thermistors but I didn’t want to shell out the money for a motherboard if I didn’t have to. I also wasnt sure if I would need additional parts (evaporator fan assembly). I gave in and hired a technician to troubleshoot the problem. The technician diagnosed the problem and concluded that the defrost cycle was staying on too long or the freezer cycle wasn’t staying on long enough. He explained to me that this is usually always a motherboard failure and that he would also recommend replacing the thermistors also.
He also explained to me that my fridge compartment was now warming up because during my troubelshooting I did not replace the rear panel covering the evaporator coils and had removed a shelf that slides in the top of my freezer. Apparently these items deflect the freezer air through the open damper into the fridge compartment.
I ended up replacing both thermistors in the freezer and the motherboard. All seems to be working fine now and he was also right about the freezer components deflecting air into the fridge (Once I reinstalled everything I could feel cold air blowing into the fridge).
I didn’t mean to ramble I was just trying to be as specific as possible. Hopefully my lesson will help someone out there :)
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