Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
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My freezer stopped defrosting.
I went to an appliance store to purchase 3 parts. To see if this would fix my problem.
I needed part numbers: WR09X0489, the defrost timer - WR51X10031, the heating element and a new defrost thermostat - WR50X122. The part store said that I could use part number WR51X10101 instead of the WR51X10031, which was a dual heating element instead of a single one.
First I snipped the old wires to the defrost thermostat and wired in the new one.
Second, I took the old heating element out, it had 2 screws holding it it. I looks like a glass tube with coils in it and it is in a metal crib. The glass element looked as if it was burnt out. So I opened the box for the new heating element and it had jumpers and extra wires and two heating elements in a crib. So I took one heating element out an put it in the old crib. They had the same numbers and looked exactly the same. So I installed it.
I was ready for the freezer coils to defrost. I did not swap out the defrost timer. I put the defrost timer into defrost mode. The heating element did not look like it was glowing, like I saw in a picture on another site. It did seem like it was defrosting though. I decided to help it out with a hair dryer. Obviosly...it defrosted. I then shut the door and left it alone for the rest of the day and last night. This morning I wanted to see if it went into defrost mode and defrost itself. It did not. So I put it in defrost mode and left it alone for 20 minutes. I then checked it and it wasn't defrosting. So I checked on the heating element and the coil in the glass tube separated, it had a break in the coil. So, the freezer will not defrost, obviosly!!!:mad:
Can I get some help??? Thank you!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Your biggest mistake was taking out one of the heaters. Because of this, you changed the resistance of the heater and caused it to fail after 1 defrost cycle. You need to reorder a wr51x10101, and follow the instructions with the part. Those 2 heaters need to be together and jumpered as indicated in the instructions and you will be fine.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
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There was only one heater to begin with. WR51X10031
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Ok, use the WR51x10101, just follow the instructions and you'll be fine.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
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If the heating element was the exact same, why did the coil break?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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Because, by you removing one of the heaters in the dual heater, the resistance value changed, and when this happens on a heater, it burns out.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
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So even though the heating elements have the exact same numbers on them, they have different resistance values?
I took out one heating element from the dual harness and put it in the single one, which is the single one is original to the refrigerator, this changes the value of the heating element? So I definately cannot take out a heating element from a dual and put it in a single, even though they have the same numbers on them. That's lame.....grrrrrrr!!!!!!!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/9/2008(UTC)
Posts: 6
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Can I put a resistor anywhere to make more resistance?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620
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There is a reason they changed the heater from the WR51x10031 and changed it to the WR51x10101. What is the reason you want to change a factory part to be used in an installation it was not designed for, enlighten me? If you want to go through all the trouble of adding a resistor by all means go ahead. Get the resistance value from the original heater, then from the new heater and the difference you get will be the size of resistor you need.
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