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Joined: 6/26/2010(UTC)
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I have been having problems with the freezer icing up. Here's what I have seen so far. Amana bottom freezer Mod#BG21V1W and P1325026WW
- The defrost timer seems to be working because it moves continuously.
- The evap coil, evap fan, and defrost theromstat turn into a block of ice.
- When I manually turn the timer to defrost mode, the heater kicks on and defrosts the coils but it is unable to completely melt the block of ice that surrounds the thermostat and heater leads.
- I have noticed that the heater element is not hot at the leads but is very hot as you move down the tube. Is this normal?
- After the fridge goes through its normal defrost mode, the thermostat itself is not covered in ice. Once the compressor kicks in for cooling mode, I immediately manually turn the timer to defrost again and it does not turn on the heater. This leads me to think that the thermostat is doing its job??
- Here's the kicker, after defrost mode the refrigerator runs and does not shut off during normal cooling mode. I put the cold selector on high or low and it still runs constantly. The cold selector will turn off the refrigerator in the off position. The fridge and freezer seem to have good temperature until the ice blocks the fresh food duct and jams the evap fan.
Is it the constant operation that is causing the ice build up and am I looking at a new cold selector? I am assuming that this also is thermostatically controlled? I do not want to unnecessarily start changing out random parts. Thanks in advance.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,648
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If the defrost system is working properly the refrigerator can run all it wants to and the coils will never frost up. However if the door gasket is leaking air it could cause both problems. It could cause too much moisture to enter the refrigerator (making it hard for the defrost system to keep up) and the extra warm air could cause the refrigerator to run all the time. Typically when this happens there will be more ice around the coils then in the coils, which causes the same problem. Does it have an icemaker and if so is there any chance the ice is coming from the icemaker tube leaking water? Refrigerator repair guide
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/26/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2
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No icemaker on this unit.
I do have a slight rip in the door gasket where it was pulled away from the door being pulled open. It is not ripped all the way through. There ultimately must be some place where the moisture is coming from.
I still have an issue with the temp selector not kicking in at all. It seems that there would have to be one heck of an air leak for this thing not to shut off on the very lowest setting. I have been dealing with this problem since last year, but it only seems to be an issue when the temperatures are high--no problem in the winter. Again, this points to an air leak.
My next step is to get some actual temperature readings while this thing is in operation. Thanks for the feedback.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/28/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,648
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We could tell you more if you had the temperature readings so post them when you get them.
Basically if things are not freezing in the fresh food section the temperature control isn’t bad. If the temperature control were stuck things in your fresh food section will be frozen. If this is the case replace the control but I don’t think it would be causing the icing up problem.
Also make sure the door switch is working i.e the light in the fresh food section is cutting off when the door is closed.
Generally speaking if I am working on a refrigerator with a problem such as yours and turning the defrost timer causes the heater to come on I will replace the timer. But you say it is turning and it does go into defrost so I don’t think it is bad.
When the coils ice up are all the coils iced up or are only part of the coil icing up?
If the humidity were high it wouldn’t take much of an air leak to cause your problem but I am not sure this is your problem.
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