[John_autry]

Freezer runs all time lost most of what was in it. temp was 34Degs.
Taped lines added freon 134a, LS runs 3-4 psi HS run 320 psi. Name tag calls for 140 psi LS and 320 psi HS. Current draw is 1.8 amps for compressor model plate calls for 5 amps
After adding freon it will pull down to 16 degs. I am thinking restriction if dryer or cap tube.
Any thoughts would be welcome

Thanks John

[richappy]

You most probably have a evaporator refrigerant leak, or a bad compressor. Pressure readings on low side way too high. The pressure numbers on the name tag are test pressures, not running pressures. For a modern compressor, your compressor current is too high, probably from non-compresable air in the system. Partially clogged capillary rare and would show up as a low current draw.

[John_autry]

Richappy

Thanks for your reply
I would like to ask some questions if its ok.

1. What should the low side run?
2. After adding freon why did it not start to freeze?
3. Are the newer freezers running less than 200 watts?
4. How can I determine iff the compressor is bad?

I am very confused. Trying to look at this in a logical way
I can add freon until the discharge preasure will run will run up
to 400 psi and will draw a little over 3 amps the side of the
freezer will get so hot you cannot tuuch it.
At this point it will still not pull down below 16 degs F.
I can remove the shield from the evoperator it will frost up,
and probably freeze. In my minds eye I can't see enough
liquid going through the capillary.

Thanks for your help all comments welcome.

John

[richappy]

All pressure/performance indicates a weak and leaky compressor, should pull down the freezer below zero. Normal low side compressor should be around 4 to 6 pounds per pressure temperature charts for R134A. if forced air evaporator defrosts it, not a good sign.

[John_autry]

Thanks

I know that I will need to replace this freezer, and that is the plan.

I am not questioning your responce or knowelge just trying to get
a better understanding of what is going on. I know now that the
PSI's listed are for leak tests. I know now that the normal discharge
psi is 175 - 200 and the suction psi is from 3-5 psi. At this point
in my minds eye there should be enough liquid passing through
the dryer and capillary tube to reach the heat exchange/evoperator
boil off at -16 deg F and go through its normal temp rise (on home ac
is about 20 degs) not sure here probably 3-4 degs to be compressed
again and condense to liguid in the condenser and give up the acculated
heat. I am babling now due to my confused state.
I have a question the point of measuring the discharge psi shows around
45-55 degs C , should this warm to the touch and cool due to room
temp?


Thanks John

[richappy]

A cool discharge is due either to a weak compressor, or air contamination, or just lack of refrigerant.

[John_autry]

Thanks for the reply

Can you direct me to a web site to where I can gain some
insite on compressors?

I can't understand a copmressor that will build a discharge psi
of 400 psi as weak. I can understand that I may have got
air in the system. When I look back on your original though on
the problem you stated leak in the evoperator that makes
sense because there is a spot on the tile flour that will not
wash clean. So there must be some reaction between the
compressor oil and the tile. This ment nothing to me in the
begaining. So low refrigerant must have been to original
problem after 10-11 years of service, or the freon I added
was not the same my came for autozone designed for vehicle
a/c systems. If it is a restricted capillary I would not change
the evoperator because it is part of the capillary/heat exchange.


Thanks again for responding to request for help

John
423 653 8899

[richappy]

You can do a google search for info.