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HELP! KitchenAid KSRA25CNSS00 fried control board

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Refrigerator & Freezer Repair

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I really need help from a pro. My frige will not cool no matter what I paid a pro to

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Old 06-21-2010, 03:46 PM
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Unhappy HELP! KitchenAid KSRA25CNSS00 fried control board
Model Number: KSRA25CNSS00   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I really need help from a pro. My frige will not cool no matter what I paid a pro to diagnose the problem and they said my relay and control board was bad. The board was fried. He also suggested that I change the relay since it was an aftermarket 3-in1. He charged me $80.00. Since I am technical I figured ill do it myself. The last service guy who worked on it was a year ago when they put the after market relay which I didnt know. So I went to ************** bought a new board and left the old relay. Frige compressor still didnt start, so I bought the relay and capacitor..still didnt start. I checked the board, and it was fried again. So, I ordered a new board thinking the old relay must have fried the new board. After installing the new board and relay/cap... It got fried aGAIN!! Did I do something wrong? I mean the relay and its pin is plug-n-Play. The only thing I was not sure of since the last service guy cut my wires was the red and white cable. There were 2 white cables connected together which I kept together and connect to the N on the relay. I connected the red on the LINE connector. Anyone with Kitchen know how the stock wires should be connected? Any pictures? I am out of ideas. Any suggestion would be appreciated. I am in the process of ordering a new board again since I have lifetime warranty. Should I call a pro at this time? the frige does power up and blows, but no cold air and the fan doesnt spin near the compressor. The compressor doesn't warm up which means it stays cold and no power.



-Richard


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2010, 04:40 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRA25CNSS00 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...0W10142174.pdf

I really need help from a pro.
Not a pro but I may be able to help some.

After installing the new board and relay/cap... It got fried aGAIN!! Did I do something wrong?
Cannot say but it does not sound like it.

Anyone with Kitchen know how the stock wires should be connected?
See the wiring diagram. The way it is connected seems OK.

Should I call a pro at this time? the frige does power up and blows, but no cold air and the fan doesnt spin near the compressor. The compressor doesn't warm up which means it stays cold and no power.

Getting a pro is up to you if you have a meter then you should be able to at least check a couple things.
There is no use in replacing the board until you find out what is blowing it.
The 3 in 1 may have taken out the compressor.
Since the condenser fan and compressor are wired in parallel, you are not getting power to them.
You may have a short between the windings in the compressor or from a winding to the case or a short in the wiring.
If you can see blown components on the board then tracing them back to the plug on the board may give a clue as to what is blowing the boards.

Here is a link with good troubleshooting info.
Your windings should be 1 to 5 ohms for the run and 3 to 11 for the start, so use the lowest meter scale. Also before reading short the meter leads together so you can see if the meter has a 0 offset.
Refrigerator Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com

This may also have some useful info.
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KSRA25CNSS00 Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...0W10142174.pdf

I really need help from a pro.
Not a pro but I may be able to help some.

After installing the new board and relay/cap... It got fried aGAIN!! Did I do something wrong?
Cannot say but it does not sound like it.

Anyone with Kitchen know how the stock wires should be connected?
See the wiring diagram. The way it is connected seems OK.

Should I call a pro at this time? the frige does power up and blows, but no cold air and the fan doesnt spin near the compressor. The compressor doesn't warm up which means it stays cold and no power.

Getting a pro is up to you if you have a meter then you should be able to at least check a couple things.
There is no use in replacing the board until you find out what is blowing it.
The 3 in 1 may have taken out the compressor.
Since the condenser fan and compressor are wired in parallel, you are not getting power to them.
You may have a short between the windings in the compressor or from a winding to the case or a short in the wiring.
If you can see blown components on the board then tracing them back to the plug on the board may give a clue as to what is blowing the boards.

Here is a link with good troubleshooting info.
Your windings should be 1 to 5 ohms for the run and 3 to 11 for the start, so use the lowest meter scale. Also before reading short the meter leads together so you can see if the meter has a 0 offset.
Refrigerator Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.com

This may also have some useful info.
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig.html
Before it went bad, it used to get warm for a day, then cool again for the next week. Until now, it is completely warm and compress does not work. I am trying to trace the path on the board, but dont understand it. I am a noive in this.
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:33 AM
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Warning. For sound engineering reasons, all the modern fractional HP compressors will blow open when a 3n 1 hard start unit is installed. You can go to my technical article in the tech section (Replacing compressor start devices) to get back- up info. These units effectively make the reactance of the start circuit near zero and the current limited only by the winding copper resistance and the initial 5 ohm start device. Peak power drawn will exceed 5KW and will aproach 5KW RMS during rapid power line spikes. In addition, this device has no klixon overload device designed to save the compressor in overload or high heat conditions. I have seen compressor windings that exploded and shorted to the motor housing. In addition to this problem, this high current will greatly exceed the adaptive defrost pc board current design limits.
Also, most of the "newer" compressors use a run capacitor that phase shifts the start winding current while the compressor is running. This capacitor prevents compressor stall and burnout during bad line conditions like a temporary brown out.
This run capacitor is vital. This increases the compressor running torqe. Failure to install this capacitor will ensure eventual compressor failure.
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Last edited by richappy : 06-23-2010 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 06-23-2010, 05:11 PM
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Thanks for your reply. Today I spoke to the Tech who originally diagnose the problem from whirlpool and they told me something similar. They said the 3-in-1 the previous tech put in more likely messed up the compressor which is why it is shorting the control board. I called whirlpool and the compressor is still under warranty. They are sending me a new compressor and I will have those techs install the compressor. I can't do it since this would void additional warranty from whirlpool. I also ordered a few frige door bins since they are goners and also under warranty. So I am waiting for it to come.
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Old 06-24-2010, 01:37 AM
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You are very fortunate that Whirlpool is replacing the compressor. Usually, the use of a 3n1 will VOID any warranty!!
Good luck with this; This is a situation where unfortunately, the less you say about the use of a 3n1 on the compressor, the better.
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