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Originally Posted by Brian27 1/ ...Guess I should run the tests posted by AM... 2/ ...Do you know if all

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Old 06-22-2010, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian27 View Post
1/ ...Guess I should run the tests posted by AM...

2/...Do you know if all the tests (evaporator, condenser, fresh-food), must be done to find the cause of the problem?...

3/...Doesn't the resistance test eliminate the tested fans as defective...

4/...If I can be sure it's not the fans (via the resistance tests), can I assume it must be the main board? If so, should I hold onto the replacement fans, or is it OK to install a new board with an old fan?...
Hi Brian,

1/ Why? All motors in your refrigerator are DC.

2/ No, you have to test a questionable motor.

3/ Unfortunately not. This test result shows that the motor is not shorted. According to GE it is not possible to say if the motor is good by resistance test.

4/ So because you are not sure about the motor I would recommend to replace both parts.

Gene.

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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2010, 11:09 PM
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Thanks Gene,

Sounds like the best way forward is to order and install a new Main Controller Board, along with one of the new Condenser Fan Motors.

Disappointed to hear that there is no field test to determine which part(s) are functional or have failed - or if both have failed.

Perhaps the Fan Motor should not be sold as separate part, but only as a kit along with a new Main Board.

This GE design makes it hard to evaluate whether to fix a fridge, or buy a new one. With APP's prices and DIY labor, it's about $200; so worth it - even if we are not able to get back the extra $85 paid to local service firm that misdiagnosed the problem as just the fan motor.

However, my next fridge won't be a GE!

I hope to be able to mark this issue as solved, once the new parts are ordered, installed and tested.

Thanks once again,

BRN..
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:18 PM
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You are welcome Brian. Keep us posted.

Gene.
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:31 AM
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GE does not publish any test data, nor does anyone else. Pure dc resistance tests are not that meaningfull. If the voltage from the motherboard is not correct, it's an indication the motherboard is bad, allmost allways due to a defective motor, evaporator or condensing. I would assume both are bad. If you buy a new motherboard and don't replace the condensing fan motor, you run a big risk of blowing out the new motherboard.
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Old 06-29-2010, 09:13 PM
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Hello again,

The saga continues.
The new controller board came in, and I got to my sister's house to install it. At that point (with a new condenser fan motor (not turning), original MB, and a floor fan to keep the coils and compressor cool, the fridge and freezer have been working Ok, and showing the temps as set, for a couple of weeks now.

I did DC voltage tests on the old MB, before removal. The test at J-2 all showed expected voltages, and I did not see any obvious fried resistors, etc....

The new GE board (from APP - which came a day after it shipped!), was slightly different from the old one, and it came with a printed installation sheet.

I followed the printed instructions meticulously (except for the step I'll mention), for this bottom freezer model.

The disconnect, removal, reconnect and install of the board went as planned.

I plugged in the power and the heard and felt the compressor come on, and could see the condenser fan spinning. At this point it had been power off about an hour. As all looked Ok, I did other things, while waiting for it to cool back down to set temps - but temps, as indicated in the LED displays, hardly dropped at all. The compressor felt hotter than I expected (now that the fan was working), so I put the floor fan back to help cool it.

After a good hour, plus, the fridge was showing 56 degrees (initially at 53, though it felt colder in the there), and the freezer was showing 4 degrees, down from 6).

Then I did the V-DC tests on the running new board, and they looked right (though the lead for the evaporator fan showed 8+, where the old board had shown 12; but I understand 12, 8 or 4 are Ok).

The only step I skipped on the install sheet (Step 4), was cutting a "Green wire in capacitor board". The problem is that the instructions and their diagram did not match what I found. There was no capacitor plastic housing from which to cut a green wire. I see a capacitor mounted to the left of the power cord, with a two prong connector, and neither wire is green

When the temps weren't dropping, I figured I'd try unplugging this capacitor. I did, and it seemed to power up just as before - but still showing high temps in the fridge section.

Though all this, I could feel slight air (not a strong flow), through the fridge vents.

I left it in this state for the time being. My sister will pass along temp readings in the morning.

Disappointed that though the fan is now spinning, unit is not performing as expected. Also disappointed in GE instruction sheet not covering this setup; and for not including a troubleshooting list.

I took several sets of pictures to document the repairs. I'll post these later - either to help you help me, or to help others facing similar situation.

Thanks,

BRN..
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:35 AM
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Keep us updated on the fridg. temperature, seems like your damper door is jamed shut.
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:38 AM
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Hi,

I'm told that the fridge is showing 54 degrees (set to 37), and the freezer -10 (set to 0). It does sound like air is being kept from fridge, and that keeps the compressor cranking trying to cool it.

Please pass along suggestions on clearing the air path.

How do I check, fix the damper door?

Can frost/ice be jamming the air way?

If it needs defrosting, can the fridge section be turned off, leaving the freezer running to keep items frozen?

Should I leave that capacitor near the compressor unplugged; and should I disregard the instructions to cut the wire that's not there - I don't want to blow out the new MB.

Just how hot is too hot for the compressor? If the condenser fan is running (as it is), should the top of the compressor get too hot to keep your hand on it?

Thank for all the help,

BRN..
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:03 AM
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You need to remover the damper door assembly to check. Make sure the run capacitor is plugged in the compressor. Keeps the compressor from stalling/failing from low line conditions.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:21 AM
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Thanks richappy,

I'll be stopping by there later today. I'll connect the capacitor - and I take it that I don't have to alter anything else in that area, as the model doesn't coincide with the diagram on the install sheet.

I'll check for instructions on damper door assembly.

We'll go from there.

Thanks again,

BRN..
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:15 PM
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Brian,

Did you install back in place the compressor compartment cover after you replaced the condenser fan motor? It is very important to have it all assembled in order to provide proper air flow around the compressor.

Gene.
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