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Iron  
#1 Posted : Sunday, December 3, 2017 9:06:35 AM(UTC)
Iron

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/3/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2

Hello,

First off, thank you for the helpful videos on your site.
I have been trying to get my Samsung Dryer in working condition and it is proving to be more difficult than I initially anticipated.

Original Issue: No heat
The dryer was not heating. No error messages, just no heat and obviously, it was taking forever to dry clothes. I searched online, confirmed my heating element was burnt out, and found a replacement heating element for my Dryer. Mind you, I installed the following model and not the actual samsung oem part : Supco DE0019A Dryer Heater Element (amazon) since it was about half the price of the Samsung oem and all the comments seemed to confirm the part works just as well.

Second problem: He error code
After replacing the heating element, the dryer heats, but after a few minutes (~5), the heater stops and and gives the heating error code "he". It feels like the dryer is overheating. I checked that my new heating element was installed properly, had continuity, was not touching any part of the case, and that my thermostat and thermal fuses all had continuity.
- At this point, my research directed me towards testing the thermistor, wich measured around 12k. This reading seemed good, but since the part is fairly inexpensive, i changed the thermistor as it was my main suspect to correct the he error. The new thermistor arrived and when i measured it, I saw it had the same reading, so I assumed this would not be correcting my issue.
- I put the new thermistor in, and still had the he error after a few minutes.
- I decided to put the dryer on air fluff to cool it down, and at the same time, to see if the heating element would heat on this setting as it should not...after a few minutes the dryer simply stopped with no error code, and refused to start again. At this point, I knew that a thermal fuse had blown.
-I opened the dyer and confirmed this was the case. I am currently waiting for the thermal fuse, but i know that this is not the root cause of my problem. It would seem like the heating element is always on instead of cycling, and also is on even in the air fluff cycle.

I think the next step would be to test the relay on the Main control board, but at the same time, I suspect i may have simply reconnected something incorrectly, causing the problem. Is that possible? I am almost certain i reconnected the relay properly (i had a picture and checked online)... What if I inversed the connector on the thermistor, for example? There should be no direction on the thermistor right? I am grasping at straws here :)

Can someone confirm how to test if the relay is the issue? I read that i should apply some current and listen for a click, can I use a 9v battery for this? The main board is pretty expensive, so i need to be certain before replacing it.

TLDR
He error code. Seems like overheating/Heating element always on. Thermistor was replaced. Heating element seems to be on in air fluff cycle (actually blew a thermal fuse). Stuck relay? Inversed connection?
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Iron  
#2 Posted : Thursday, January 4, 2018 7:56:33 AM(UTC)
Iron

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/3/2017(UTC)
Posts: 2

bump
Any ideas? Thanks!
ThatGuy  
#3 Posted : Thursday, January 4, 2018 4:44:31 PM(UTC)
ThatGuy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Expert
Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,395

If I had to guess and that is what I'm doing right now, i'd say you have a main power relay stuck on. That means the contacts inside the relay have arced enough that they have welded themselves together. So the relay is always "ON" even when the power is off. Normally a relay will show an "open" reading when in the off state. Meaning there is no continuity across the main terminals of the relay.

I couldn't find you exact model number, but I did find a picture of a relay board that's probably pretty close. On the board the lower left black relay is probably the one for the heating element. If you take one or both wires off it and test for continuity across the terminals, it will probably show continuity or a dead short. That would prove it is bad.

I don't know much about this brand, but I do know quite a bit about electronics. Good luck.

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