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christyhecht  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, May 2, 2017 1:50:15 PM(UTC)
christyhecht

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I have a Whirlpool gas dryer (model LGR6611LQ0) that's having a few issues. I've fixed things on it a few times before, and am trying to figure out if I can do it again, or if at this point I should just let it die, because the problems are racking up. :)

A few problems:

1. The dryer developed 2 new problems at the same time, just a few days ago. I normally use it on one of the auto-dry settings. Suddenly, when I use one of those settings, the timer no longer advances, so the dryer will just run continuously until I stop it. At the same time, the heat stopped working correctly. If I turn it on high heat, it'll heat up a little in the beginning of the cycle, but as far as I can tell, doesn't come on again after that, even when you run it for 6 hours like I accidentally did. My temporary fix has been to turn it to a timed setting. When set for a specific time, the timer does advance, and the dryer shuts off after the time alotted, but the heating issues still occur; heat only runs at the beginning of the cycle.

2. The door switch has been broken for about a month. If we open the door while the dryer is on, it keeps spinning. I've found the part for this, and it looks like an easy repair, but it's another tick on the check list of this dryer moving toward death.

3. About a month ago, we were hearing intermittant thumping noises from the dryer, like it had shoes inside. But it didn't; it was just regular clothes. This has since gone away, weirdly enough.

Any help or advice you can give would be very appreciated! Thank you!
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christyhecht  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, May 2, 2017 2:57:10 PM(UTC)
christyhecht

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Update: I have taken the dryer apart to try to test the gas coils, as that seemed a likely cuplrit. I pulled them out and tested their continuity, and both seem acceptable. Using a digital multimeter set to 2k ohms, the 2 terminal coil is measuing 1302. The 3 terminal coil is measuring 1390 on the middle prong (but this number jumps allllll over the place while I try to get a reading) and 580 on the right prong. This seems to be within acceptable tolerances, right? So I'm moving on to something else, I suppose.
christyhecht  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, May 2, 2017 4:09:10 PM(UTC)
christyhecht

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Thermal fuse has continuity
ThatGuy  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, May 2, 2017 5:48:40 PM(UTC)
ThatGuy

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The coils get warm and their winding separates, so the dryer heats once then cools off. You would need to test the coil's continuity after it heats and quits.

Replace the coils and door switch and you should be up and running again.

Whirlpool 279834 Dryer Gas Valve Coil Kit - AppliancePartsPros.com

Whirlpool WP3406107 Dryer Door Switch Assembly - AppliancePartsPros.com
christyhecht  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, May 3, 2017 9:58:10 AM(UTC)
christyhecht

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Oh, so a test for a coil can be totally incorrect if it hasn't been used recently (which it hadn't)? Well, that's good to know. Are you pretty confident it's not the timer or something else?
ThatGuy  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, May 3, 2017 2:07:34 PM(UTC)
ThatGuy

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If it heats up once and doesn't heat again until it cools completely off, its usually one of the coils. (replace as a set).

I've replaced so many over the years that I lost count long ago. It is one of the most common failures on gas dryers. I always kept several sets of the coils in stock. Next to belts and rollers and sometimes a thermal fuse, they are the most replaced parts.
ThatGuy  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, May 3, 2017 2:18:08 PM(UTC)
ThatGuy

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The thumping noise could have been the drum rollers. They are like little rubber car tires and if the dryer is stopped while hot, they can get flat spots. They will thump right along until they warm back up and smooth out.

Usually this doesn't happen, the dryer goes through cool down before turning off.

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thorning  
#8 Posted : Thursday, May 4, 2017 8:52:20 AM(UTC)
thorning

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In my experience you have described several problems with this dryer. The door switch problem is a fairly common item and easily and usually low priced to fix. Sometimes I squirt a small amount of WD40 in the plunger type and it frees it up. On the lever type you need to replace the switch.
The rollers can take a set and/or develop a flat spot but the bearing and shaft may be beyond repair. This is unusual however and I find the roller surface may be worn badly. Quite often I take the rollers out and switch the left for the right and vice versa after the shafts have been cleaned and lubed. Sometimes it is adequate. Dont neglect the drum support slippers. They support the opposite end of the drum. These are usually replaceable but some are not. If there is a problem with the timer your dryer is too expensive to repair. Gas valve coils are easy to replace and not very expensive. For some reason both do not fail together . When you have the drum out you should check the condition of the belt and the idler roller also.
christyhecht  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, May 9, 2017 12:33:23 AM(UTC)
christyhecht

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I just wanted to thank you both for your help. I replaced the gas coils and the door switch, and voila, I'm back in business! So very excited! Thank you again.
ThatGuy  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, May 9, 2017 6:36:49 PM(UTC)
ThatGuy

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You're welcome.
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