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Wiring of the replacment motor. only have four wires (red,black,yellow,white/blue). New motor runs, but burner will not start. Old motor had centifgual switch. The wires are now on the follwing terminals red=5 blue=1 black=2 yellow=6 white=thermal protector. What is need to get the burner to start?
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Originally Posted by: jstrand  Wiring of the replacment motor. only have four wires (red,black,yellow,white/blue). New motor runs, but burner will not start. Old motor had centifgual switch. The wires are now on the follwing terminals red=5 blue=1 black=2 yellow=6 white=thermal protector. What is need to get the burner to start? Jstrand, You did purchase the motor kit, presumably, Part number: AP5272724
A couple of quick update notes, The White wire(44) is the same as the grey wire on newer models(N), and should be attached to the 1/4" thermal protector tab. In order to maintain the circuit integrity, it's best to use the Electric Dryer (figure 4A) to wire the replacement motor, regardless of gas or electric dryer. The heat circuit on both units is black terminal 2 and blue terminal 1, on a gas machine when the motor starts and is running, the switch closes and completes the neutral circuit to the gas valve. You'll need to recheck and verify that the wires are attached to the proper terminals, and That the switch has a "closed" circuit between terminal 1 and 2 when the motor is running.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Jstrand, You did purchase the motor kit, presumably, Part number: AP5272724
A couple of quick update notes, The White wire(44) is the same as the grey wire on newer models(N), and should be attached to the 1/4" thermal protector tab. In order to maintain the circuit integrity, it's best to use the Electric Dryer (figure 4A) to wire the replacement motor, regardless of gas or electric dryer. The heat circuit on both units is black terminal 2 and blue terminal 1, on a gas machine when the motor starts and is running, the switch closes and completes the neutral circuit to the gas valve. You'll need to recheck and verify that the wires are attached to the proper terminals, and That the switch has a "closed" circuit between terminal 1 and 2 when the motor is running. Yes I did purchase the motor kit and followed 4B wiring. Bottom line white (44) on 1/4" thermal with blue jumper to terminal 1, red on 5, black on 2, yellow on 6.:)
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: jstrand Yes I did purchase the motor kit and followed 4B wiring. Bottom line white (44) on 1/4" thermal with blue jumper to terminal 1, red on 5, black on 2, yellow on 6.:) OK, now what you need to do is, disconnect the blue and black wire from terminals 1 and 2. tape or set them aside so they dont't get damaged. With the dryer power off check across the two terminals for an "open" circuit with a multi meter. Then start the dryer, and recheck across the no.1 and 2 terminals again, for a "closed" circuit. This will tell you if the centrifugal switch is completing the neutral circuit to the gas valve. If there is no circuit, presumably you'd have a faulty repalcement motor. You need to be careful, there will be 120 volts at other contacts of the motor.
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