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That seems the best next step to me too. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
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Finally received a second replacement control board and replaced it with no improvement. Drum rotation still "locks up" when it tries to start. Waited a day to think about it and decided to check wiring again. 4-pin hall sensor cable still tests good for continuity from end to end but connector contact mating was still an open question.
Held plastic latch in the open position and slid connector in and out of motor connector with no resistance, indicating low tension on flexible contacts. Eventually managed to slightly deform the contacts such that they had to flex when installed on the motor connector. Presto! Machine has operated without fail for several more loads. (Did nothing to connector on control board end of cable.)
Still need to retest original motor and controller, which may not be defective after all.
Also concerned that my connector "fix" will only be temporary until machine vibration causes ad-hoc connector tuning to fail again.
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I'm glad you found the cause of the problem. You may want to order a new wire harness. - The wire harness Part number: 34001485
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Stormy-er  Finally received a second replacement control board and replaced it with no improvement. Drum rotation still "locks up" when it tries to start. Waited a day to think about it and decided to check wiring again. 4-pin hall sensor cable still tests good for continuity from end to end but connector contact mating was still an open question.
Held plastic latch in the open position and slid connector in and out of motor connector with no resistance, indicating low tension on flexible contacts. Eventually managed to slightly deform the contacts such that they had to flex when installed on the motor connector. Presto! Machine has operated without fail for several more loads. (Did nothing to connector on control board end of cable.)
Still need to retest original motor and controller, which may not be defective after all.
Also concerned that my connector "fix" will only be temporary until machine vibration causes ad-hoc connector tuning to fail again. WELL DID THIS SOLVE THE PROBLEM? aND WAS THE ORIGINAL MOTOR AND CONTROL BOARD OK? WHERE IS THIS 4 PIN HALL SENSOR CABLE LOCATED?
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Rank: Member
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Once the problem with the 4 pin speed sensor cable was corrected I reinstalled the original control board and the original problem returned. I switched back to the new control board, verified proper operation, then reinstalled the original motor and drum. The washer still worked so I returned the replacement motor.
Conclusion: Try replacing the control board first. The motor driver electronics are more likely to fail than the motor windings or the low-power electronics in the motor Hall (electromagnetic) sensor.
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I just bought a used MAH9700AWW which is the front load Neptune by Maytag. The s/n is 12931331GN It will not spin the tub in any cycle arrangement. It will fill with water but seems to overfill until I cancel the cycle. I can eventually get it to drain by messing around with the controls which seem to respond OK. I finally got a code 3E to show up which is apparently a motor or control problem or both. No wires are damaged or chafed. The motor turns OK by hand. I tried to run a test using the service mode but nothing happened. Is there a low cost way to diagnose/replace this motor or control panel . It looks like the motor cost is about $271 and the control panel is $310. Since I only paid $50 for this washer I am reluctant to spend that much money to fix it although it is very clean. Can anyone help me on this problem ?
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I have a Maytag Neptune front load that will not turn the drum. This model number MAH9700AWW s/n12931331GN. It will fill with water (never seems to shut off) but will not do anything else. I have tried the diagnostic checks but no help in getting it to spin. I can get it to drain the water by using different commands on the panel but can never get it to spin. I suspect the motor so I checked all the connections from the control board down to the motor. The motor connections all checked out to be OK with a reading of 11.6 ohms pin to pin and no problems with the connections. The Hall sensor was checked per the manual and all resistance readings were infinite from pin to pin to pin. It appears the sensor is not working. It cannot be purchased separately from the motor as far as i can tell. This motor is very expensive from Maytag-about $280-so I am looking for a less expensive alternative. One source suggested that Samsung who made these washers for Maytag has the same part for about half the Maytag cost.
The p/n as shown in the Maytag diagram is 34001269
Samsung p/n for the same item DC31-00049A
Can anyone assist in this problem area and also tell me if the Samsung part is directly interchangeable ? Also would the water not shutting off have anything to do with the non spin problem I would like to fix this washer as it is very nice but I only paid $50 for it and dont want to spend hundreds to fix it.
Help
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Rank: Member
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I bought the Samsung p/n motor and rotor and installed them today with no success. The parts fit perfectly in place of the Maytag at about half the cost by the way. Now the question is where do I go from here as the washer still will not spin. The tub turns easy by hand. tomorrow I am going to try something with the connections for the hall effect sensor both at the motor end and at the control board and see if there is a problem I am overlooking.
If anyone has a suggestion for the solution to this problem it would be greatly appreciated.
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Rank: Member
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I too have a maytag neptune front load model MAH9700AWW s/n 12931331GN with the same problem. It will not spin . I replaced the motor and drum assembly but no help. Is there any way to test the control board as the source of the problem ?. Also is there a Samsung p/n for the board ? beautiful washer but it does not work and I dont want to scrap it but I only paid $50 for it and a new control board is very expensive.
Need help.
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Rank: Member
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FWIW, I dismantled the PCB control board in this Neptune/Samsung front and compared it to a Samsung part for sale on E bay and found that the Samsung part will probably fit but it has 2 differences as compared to the Maytag part. The Maytag part has a 2 pin connection (red block) near the LH end that apparently feeds the reactor electrical device thru 2 grey wires. Reactor windings are usually used at least on welders to smooth out the current flow when striking an arc. Not sure why Maytag added it.
The other difference is up along the top edge where the multi pin connectors hook up to the board. Samsung used another 4 pin connector adjacent to the 3 already in place whereas Maytag did not. Dont know how that figured into the circuitry.
If anyone reading all this material has any knowledge about the circuit board interchangeability beteween Samsung and Maytag Neptune front load high eff models I would appreciate hearing about it
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