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vtdubu  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, April 26, 2011 12:14:51 PM(UTC)
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vtdubu

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 12


Dear Expert:



I own Kitchen Aid Electric Rangemodel # KERC507HWH3 and I am looking for assistance to determine the cause ofmy oven taking an extreme amount of time to preheat.



I have a heating element on the topof the oven, a circular convection element on the back wall with a fan and avent that covers both and a hidden element under the bottom of the stove.



I thought the problem was that an elementor elements needed to be replaced, so I checked to see if any elements were notheating up.



I turned on the oven and opened thedoor while I held in the button that indicates to the stove that the door isclosed.



I could feel that the elements onthe top of the oven were producing heat and they turned very red, so I assumed thatthey were working correctly.



I then took off the grate to theconvection element and tested it the same way.



I cannot just turn on the convectionelement without the elements on the top of the oven heating up.



So since I really could not check to see if there was any heat coming from theconvection element, the only way I thought I could do to determine if the elementwas working, was to see if the element turned red when the oven was turned onin the convection mode.



When I tried this element neverturned red and I assumed it was broken.



I ordered a new element, but after I installedit, the oven still did not heat properly and this new element did not turn redeither.



So now I am not sure in the convectionelement is working or if the hidden element is not working.



Anyway, I would appreciate it if youcould give me instructions of how I can in fact check to see if the elementsare working correctly.



Thankyou very much,



Vic


[FONT="Calibri","sans-serif"] vtdubu@myfairpoint.net[/FONT]
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 26, 2011 1:35:16 PM(UTC)
Quote
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: vtdubu Go to Quoted Post

Dear Expert:



I own Kitchen Aid Electric Rangemodel # KERC507HWH3 and I am looking for assistance to determine the cause ofmy oven taking an extreme amount of time to preheat.



I have a heating element on the topof the oven, a circular convection element on the back wall with a fan and avent that covers both and a hidden element under the bottom of the stove.



I thought the problem was that an elementor elements needed to be replaced, so I checked to see if any elements were notheating up.



I turned on the oven and opened thedoor while I held in the button that indicates to the stove that the door isclosed.



I could feel that the elements onthe top of the oven were producing heat and they turned very red, so I assumed thatthey were working correctly.



I then took off the grate to theconvection element and tested it the same way.



I cannot just turn on the convectionelement without the elements on the top of the oven heating up.



So since I really could not check to see if there was any heat coming from theconvection element, the only way I thought I could do to determine if the elementwas working, was to see if the element turned red when the oven was turned onin the convection mode.



When I tried this element neverturned red and I assumed it was broken.



I ordered a new element, but after I installedit, the oven still did not heat properly and this new element did not turn redeither.



So now I am not sure in the convectionelement is working or if the hidden element is not working.



Anyway, I would appreciate it if youcould give me instructions of how I can in fact check to see if the elementsare working correctly.



Thankyou very much,



Vic


[FONT=Calibri","sans-serif][EMAIL="vtdubu@myfairpoint.net"]vtdubu@myfairpoint.net[/FONT][/EMAIL]



Vic,

You'll need to access the hidden bake element, and check it for brokrn loose wires or a damaged element.

If you have a multi meter, you should also check for 220 to 240 VAC,across the 2 wires going to the element.

Here are the instructions from the manual for your unit.


To remove the hidden bake element:

a) Remove the right side panel.
b) Spread the insulation away from the front of the hidden bake element.

c) Disconnect the two wire connectors from the hidden bake element terminals.
d) Remove the element shield screw from the right end of the shield.

e) Pull the hidden bake element and its shield to the right and unhook the left

and right tabs.
To remove a side panel
1. Unplug range or disconnect power.
2. Pull the range away from the wall so that you can access the rear of the unit.
3. Remove the oven door and set it aside
4. Pull the storage drawer out as far as it will go.
5. Remove the two rear screws from the side panel.

6. From the rear of the unit, reach inside and remove the screw from the bottom of the side panel.

7. Slide the side panel forward and unhook the front edge, then tilt the top of the side panel out, and lift the panel from the unit.

NOTE: When reinstalling the side panel, set
the bottom edge on the rail, hook the front edge
at the top and bottom, and install the two rear
screws; then install the bottom screw from

inside the rear of the unit.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
vtdubu  
#3 Posted : Friday, April 29, 2011 6:38:25 AM(UTC)
Quote
vtdubu

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 12


I appreciate your help.

Before I actually take out the hidden bake element, can you tell me how Ican actually determine if the circle convection element and the hidden bakeelement are working?

Thank You Very Much



Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Vic,

You'll need to access the hidden bake element, and check it for brokrn loose wires or a damaged element.

If you have a multi meter, you should also check for 220 to 240 VAC,across the 2 wires going to the element.

Here are the instructions from the manual for your unit.


To remove the hidden bake element:
a) Remove the right side panel.
b) Spread the insulation away from the front of the hidden bake element.
c) Disconnect the two wire connectors from the hidden bake element terminals.

d) Remove the element shield screw from the right end of the shield.
e) Pull the hidden bake element and its shield to the right and unhook the left

and right tabs.
To remove a side panel
1. Unplug range or disconnect power.

2. Pull the range away from the wall so that you can access the rear of the unit.
3. Remove the oven door and set it aside
4. Pull the storage drawer out as far as it will go.
5. Remove the two rear screws from the side panel.
6. From the rear of the unit, reach inside and remove the screw from the bottom of the side panel.

7. Slide the side panel forward and unhook the front edge, then tilt the top of the side panel out, and lift the panel from the unit.

NOTE: When reinstalling the side panel, set

the bottom edge on the rail, hook the front edge
at the top and bottom, and install the two rear
screws; then install the bottom screw from

inside the rear of the unit.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)






Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Friday, April 29, 2011 10:39:48 AM(UTC)
Quote
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: vtdubu Go to Quoted Post

I appreciate your help.

Before I actually take out the hidden bake element, can you tell me how Ican actually determine if the circle convection element and the hidden bakeelement are working?

Thank You Very Much


Vic,

You'll need a multi meter , to check resistances and voltages at the elements, if you want to do this correctly.

Part number: AP3873826
Part number: AP3873826


http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html

The convection bake element should have 14 to 26 ohms resistance on the lowest resistance setting of your meter (1 or RK1) across the 2 terminals of the element.
The convection bake element does not get energized until the oven has pre heated(approximately 10 to 15 minutes into the cycle) then it should have 220 VAC across the wires on the element.

You'll still have to dismantle the oven, to access the hidden bake element.
The element should have a resistance of 46 to 60 ohms across the element terminals, and 220 VAC across the wires when the"bake" cycle is chosen and activated.

Improper or no resistance across the element terminals would indicate a bad element, no voltage would indicate a bad control board or DLB relay(doubtful at this point) or damaged broken wire to the element.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
vtdubu  
#5 Posted : Monday, May 2, 2011 7:33:02 AM(UTC)
Quote
vtdubu

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 12

Hi Joe:

I really appreciate your time and expertise with helping me.

I understand I will need a multi meter, to check resistances and voltages at the elements, if I want to do this correctly.

I also went to the link below that you provided to learn more about the meter.

http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html

The part I am still not quite sure is what do I actually touch with the needles?

I look forward to your helpful advice.

Thank you very much,

Vic
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Monday, May 2, 2011 8:00:49 AM(UTC)
Quote
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: vtdubu Go to Quoted Post
Hi Joe:

I really appreciate your time and expertise with helping me.

I understand I will need a multi meter, to check resistances and voltages at the elements, if I want to do this correctly.

I also went to the link below that you provided to learn more about the meter.

http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html

The part I am still not quite sure is what do I actually touch with the needles?

I look forward to your helpful advice.

Thank you very much,

Vic


When you test the "resistance" of the component, you remove the wires from the connectors on the part and put the needles on the 2 empty terminals.

When you test the "voltage" to the components, with the wires removed you will need to use the clips that come with the meter, attach them to the wires you detached from the component, turn the power on and test for 220 to 240 VAC across the 2 wires. (you need to be careful, don't allow the needles or connections touch each other or metal frame work, or yourself).

You'll have it figured out in no time.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
vtdubu  
#7 Posted : Monday, May 2, 2011 8:26:02 AM(UTC)
Quote
vtdubu

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 12

I really appreciate not only your help, but your patience with me. Are the connecters you are referring to, the metal male plugs that protrude inside the oven that I attach the actual elements to?
Would the test still work, if I just touched the metal male plugs?
Finally you said “use the clips that come with the meter”.
In looking at the picture of the meter you showed, I do not see any clips and the only I actually see are two the needles.I look forward to your help.

Thank you very much, Tony
Joe / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Monday, May 2, 2011 9:05:50 AM(UTC)
Quote
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: vtdubu Go to Quoted Post
Hi Joe: I really appreciate not only your help, but your patience with me. Are the connecters you are referring to, the metal male plugs that protrude inside the oven that I attach the actual elements to? Would the test still work, if I just touched the metal male plugs?
Finally you said “use the clips that come with the meter”. In looking at the picture of the meter you showed, I do not see any clips and the only I actually see are two the needles. I look forward to your help. Thank you very much,


Vic,

You're correct, My Mistake. the meter does not come with insulated"alligator" clips.

You have to remove the wires from the element, to test the resistance, you'll get a false reading if you don't.

You can test the voltage(s) with the wires attached to the element, just be extremely careful, don't short the wires, element, or yourself.

The voltage check(s) are to verify, that we didn't damage a relay or clock,
and when you check for voltage to the convection element, the broil element will be on, don't burn yourself.

:) :) :)
vtdubu  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, May 3, 2011 11:35:35 AM(UTC)
Quote
vtdubu

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 12

[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Joe:[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'] [/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'] What is the difference between the resistance and voltage you referred to in your message?[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'] [/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'] Since there are no clips, do I just touch both wires with the needles?[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'] [/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif'] Vic[/FONT]
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