Cybolt,

Where it me,

I'd start by checking for closed circuits and loose wires at the igniter/glow bar, the flame sensor switch, after re connecting all the loose wires on the fuse.

(you're going to need a multi meter, to test resistance and voltage).

After you dismantle the machine and bypass the door switch,
put the dryer into a timed dry high heat setting and start the machine.

( YOU have to be careful, you'll be doing Live Voltage tests )

You'll use chassis ground as a common connection, and starting at the red wire on the hi limit switch work your way down the circuit on every terminal on every heater circuit component checking for 120 VAC to the blue wire(s) on the gas valve coils.

See wiring diagram below



Good Luck,
:) :) :)

Cybolt,

What type meter do you have, analog (needle) or digital (display) ?

Do you have at least 1 meter "alligator clip ?

I don't think you have a "wiring problem", I included the wiring diagram as an assist for you to track the heat circuit and components, to determine which part has failed.

Testing resistance and closed circuits, is a good, proper test, but not as accurate as a voltage test, in a lot of cases, I prefer voltage tests, you only need to be careful, and run a circuit test once.

The basic idea was:

If you had 120 VAC at the blue wire on the gas valve connectors, that would tell you all your thermostats and timer and wiring,is OK, and your problem is in the burner assembly components(coils, igniter, flame switch).

If you have NO voltage at the blue wire, then you start tracing voltage back, through the fuses and thermostats, back up to the timer, until you find it.

If you use the wiring diagram, as a guide, the unit dismantled, and unplugged,

You should disconnect the wires from each component and check for a closed circuit(on each) across the 2 terminals, with your meter, they should all have a closed circuit, at room temperature.

If , or when you get to the timer heat circuit, you'll have to put the timer in a drying selection(timer dry preferred) and check the timer contacts for a closed circuit as well.

I'm sure you'll do fine,it may sound more elaborate than it is,

:) :) :)

Cybolt,

I don't know your meter reading display(s).

Here's an informative post from our Forum, that should help you.

http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html

The thermostats, fuses and timer circuits , should have all read a "closed" circuit.
The only "numbers" you should have read would be, when you circuit checked the gas valve coils and the igniter:

(Using the lowest ohms / resistance setting on your meter)

The glow bar igniter should have read 50 to 500 ohms.
The 2 terminal gas valve coil should have read 1000 to 1300 ohms.
The 3 terminal coil, terminal 1 to terminal 2 should have read 1300 to 1400 ohms, and terminal 1 to terminal 3 should have 500 to 600 ohms.
(looking at the terminals on the 3 pin coil, terminal 1 is on the left.)

If everything re checks proper, suspect the gas valve coils, as they have a tendency to check proper when cool, but go weak and loose the circuit after a few minutes of operation.

Good Luck,

:) :) :)