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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KESC308LSS0 30" Slide - in Range Designer Style Convection Oven | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%209754365.pdf[COLOR="Blue"]I used the End of Service Test Sequence (ESTS) to isolate the bake element and then check the power status using a meter. There is 120V (to N) at each lead when isolated in the ESTS (and 0V when not), this also holds true in standard baking mode.[/COLOR]
Referencing to Neutral does not really tell you much because you cannot tell if you are measuring L1 or L2.
Referring to the wiring diagram ans assuming you do not have a DLB relay. If you use Neutral/chassis for one meter lead you will measure 120 volts on the right hand side of the bake element all the time since it is hard wired to L2.
You will also see the L2 120 volts all the time on the left hand side of the element (if it is good) when it is off even though it is not passing current.
Then when you measure it with the element on (assuming the boards bake relay is OK), you still see 120 volts but this time it is from L1
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The housing for the bake element has connectivity to the oven chassis.[/COLOR]
Not sure what this means.
The element should have infinite ohms (open) when measured to Neutral/chassis. It rune off the 240 volts so is isolated from chassis.
[COLOR="Blue"]I am assuming the new element is good so where should I look next?[/COLOR]
Check the element using ohms just to be sure it is OK. Not sure what it should be usually 10 to 20 ohms.
[COLOR="Blue"]Could the circuit board with the relays be an issue and if so how would I test that?[/COLOR]
This would be at the top of my list.
Measure the voltage from P7 to P2 you should see 240 volts with the element off.
Then use the diagnostics to turn it on you should see 0 volts (voltage now dropped across the element instead of across the open relay contacts. If not the bake relay contacts are not closing for some reason or they are toast.
OR
You could disconnect the P2 side of the bake element.
Use Neutral/chassis for one meter lead, P2 for the other
With element/control off you should see 0 volts.
Turn it on using the diagnostics, you should see 120 volts re: the relay switches in L1 voltage.
[COLOR="Blue"]Should I get an ammeter and look for amperage at the element?[/COLOR]
I would not. I do not think this will tell you anything. The element does not heat up so you already know that it has no current.
I hope the above makes sense!!
