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Originally Posted by: Gene  The first thing I would check is the temperature in the freezer (it suppose to be bellow 12°F) and the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage. If there is a water filter - how old is it? Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in. If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution. Post the results. Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper refrigerator Model RS22AQXKQ00Gene. On my "N" & "L" test points I get 0VAC, but get 120VAC in on the black and white wires that plug into the icemaker. So this means the icemaker is bad, right? Just want to make sure before buying a new one.
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Charles,
We're glad to hear we could help you out. If there is anything else we can help you with, drop us a line.
Gene.
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Wanted to thank Gene for his helpful test procedures. It helped us find out that the bad part was the valve and not the maker itself. Also want to say that we ordered the valve here on Thursday evening and the part arrived Saturday morning using standard ground shipping. Thanks!
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Originally Posted by: Dunsany This is a Kitchen Aid Model KSRA25ILSS01 ... s/n SM1838777
Freezer Temp is 4 F
Original Ice Maker was p/n 2198597
The replacement has the following markings:
1. 185 W-115V-60 HZ ...which I assume is 185 watts at 115 volts etc.
2. IM #S 106 626640
Appreciate your guidance.:) :)
They installed a new Optic kit p/n 4389102.
When I look at the wiring schematic it appears that the door switch is part of the circuit as well...could this be the problem.
If I need to start over with all new parts so be it. The service people here do not seem to be up on these. First they say no power to the the ice maker, then they say it needs a new ice maker, then a optics kit, and on and on Very sorry for such delay. I was on vacation and then somehow overlooked your post. If the status LED stays On while the emitter door on the left side closed then very likely the new ice maker is defective. It has to be exchanged under the parts warranty. Gene.
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I had a similar problem with my whirlpool. I replaced the optics boards and the icemaker. It didn't work at first but after a day or so it started cranking out ice and hasn't stopped yet. I think since the cycling of the icemaker is temperature dependent, the thermostat in the icemaker has to equilbrate with the freezer temperature.
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I have a Kitchen Aid side by side fridge Model # KSCS25INSS00. I replaced the entire ice maker. Will make one tray(fills, freezes and dispenses, next time it will fill with water, but will not eject the ice. If I take it out and put it back in it works once, then stops again. The LED is blinking, and if I close the flapper door it stays solid. Would that mean the board needs replacing too? Thanks.
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:confused: Originally Posted by: Dunsany I replied last week...did you receive?:confused: 01-2011 05:36 AM Dunsany Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene 
What is the exact temperature in the freezer?
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator and the part number of the new ice maker?
Gene.
This is a Kitchen Aid Model KSRA25ILSS01 ... s/n SM1838777
Freezer Temp is 4 F
Original Ice Maker was p/n 2198597
The replacement has the following markings:
1. 185 W-115V-60 HZ ...which I assume is 185 watts at 115 volts etc.
2. IM #S 106 626640
Appreciate your guidance.:) :)
They installed a new Optic kit p/n 4389102.
When I look at the wiring schematic it appears that the door switch is part of the circuit as well...could this be the problem.
If I need to start over with all new parts so be it. The service people here do not seem to be up on these. First they say no power to the the ice maker, then they say it needs a new ice maker, then a optics kit, and on and on 08-31-2011 10:22 PM Gene What is the exact temperature in the freezer?
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator and the part number of the new ice maker?
Gene. 08-31-2011 05:16 PM Dunsany Have done the following:
1. Replaced the filter
2. Put in new optics kit.... did the check and it is OK.
3. Put in new ice maker....did the jumper check and it went thru one ice harvest and re-filled with water. Now it is filled with ice but will not go thru a harvest cycle.
4. The valve cycles twice, and thats it. The tube is not frozen.
Any ideas...looks like I've tried everything?
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...p;p=525026#ixzz1XITalufJ
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com
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I replied last week...did you receive?:confused: Originally Posted by: Gene What is the exact temperature in the freezer?
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator and the part number of the new ice maker?
Gene.
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Thanks alot Gene! I replaced the icemaker in about 2o minutes and my mother is enjoying ice again. You saved me money on calling someone out to look at it, I am grateful as hard as money is to come by these days!
Danny :D
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Originally Posted by: Gene What is the exact temperature in the freezer?
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator and the part number of the new ice maker?
Gene. This is a Kitchen Aid Model KSRA25ILSS01 ... s/n SM1838777 Freezer Temp is 4 F Original Ice Maker was p/n 2198597 The replacement has the following markings: 1. 185 W-115V-60 HZ ...which I assume is 185 watts at 115 volts etc. 2. IM #S 106 626640 Appreciate your guidance.:) :) They installed a new Optic kit p/n 4389102. When I look at the wiring schematic it appears that the door switch is part of the circuit as well...could this be the problem. If I need to start over with all new parts so be it. The service people here do not seem to be up on these. First they say no power to the the ice maker, then they say it needs a new ice maker, then a optics kit, and on and on
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