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I was back at the farm. Checked to see if the relay coil was getting voltage from the timer when timer was calling for heat..... I found no voltage at relay coil. That confirms a bad timer.
Also to check everything else.... temporary bypassed the relay contacts... the igniter came on and the burner lit.
Now I will be ordering a new timer/clock.
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I checked the relay coil and it has continuity. Now I'm thinking the relay is probably OK. I have the control board with me but that is about all I can check. When I go back to the farm in a few weeks I'll hook it up and check to see if the coil is getting 12 volts from the timer. If there is no low voltage getting to the coil, the timer is the culprit and I'll have to replace the board.
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I had suspected the relay, since I couldn't hear it click. I'll try to find a replacement before replacing the complete board.
Gene, thanks for the suggestion and the quick comeback.
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Looks like the problem is a bad K3 relay on the control board which should provide 120VAC to the igniter. This relay does not affect other functions of the control board. If you are able to find such relay (by matching numbers on it), you can try to replace it. Otherwise the control board has to be replaced. - The part number for the control board is AP2129233 Here are the break down diagrams for the Frigidaire oven Model FGB24L2ABAGene.
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Built in gas oven. I installed the oven at our farm. We don't live there but 1 or 2 days a month and doubt the oven has been turned on a dozen times and then only to warm something.
Clock/timer works as usual but fails to start igniter.
I have the schematic, VOM and tired the below items.
1. Unplugged igniter, checked continuity... OK.
2. Set control to heat and set temperature. With igniter unplugged showed no voltage at BR-1 pin or the other pin W-1.
3. Removed wiring connector from control panel (clock/timer). From wiring end, V-1 and V-1, checked continuity through temperature probe... OK.
4. From wiring end of connector checked continuity from wire BR-1 to neutral pin... OK.
Looks like a faulty expensive control panel to me but strange why the clock and timer works OK?
First time for me to trouble shoot a gas oven but I see the igniter is in series with the gas valve. So how does this normally function? My guess, after the igniter heats, the resistance drops and allows current to open the gas valve?
Thanks
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